Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a 1990 mine's gtr ,it has a rb30 block with rb26dett head n1 turbos . i have owned it for six months now i have dont a vehicle history report in all states in australia ,im the second owner in oz an i would like to know what engine internals it may have as i know the work done to it was done in japan... i would like to find out the history of the car in japan can anybody help ???

regards ,dion

post-66218-1251865488_thumb.jpg

post-66218-1251865522_thumb.jpg

post-66218-1251865633_thumb.jpg

Edited by oooGODZILLAooo

Any built plates and numbers in the engine bay?

Get the VIN Number and do a VIN Check here... - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/VI...ed-t128496.html

Someone can decode it for you... It might just come up as a normal 90 model GTR, so build plates and plaques are needed to clarify if it is a Mine's or not...

Just by looking at the pics, you just have a Mine's Speedo which can be put on any R32 GTR.

Check your ECU, Mine's use there own ECU's

post-46584-1251869009_thumb.jpg

post-46584-1251869018_thumb.jpg

They also have there own exhaust systems and many upgraded parts like camshafts, suspension, brake systems, and carbon fiber body parts...

So the only way to tell if it is a "Mine's" R32 GTR, you might want to take a look in the engine by taking the cam covers off to start with...

Any built plates and numbers in the engine bay?

Get the VIN Number and do a VIN Check here... - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/VI...ed-t128496.html

Someone can decode it for you... It might just come up as a normal 90 model GTR, so build plates and plaques are needed to clarify if it is a Mine's or not...

Just by looking at the pics, you just have a Mine's Speedo which can be put on any R32 GTR.

Check your ECU, Mine's use there own ECU's

post-46584-1251869009_thumb.jpg

post-46584-1251869018_thumb.jpg

They also have there own exhaust systems and many upgraded parts like camshafts, suspension, brake systems, and carbon fiber body parts...

So the only way to tell if it is a "Mine's" R32 GTR, you might want to take a look in the engine by taking the cam covers off to start with...

thank you for your help ... the engine number is rb30117488a axle code :r11 vin:6h91mportwhf79096 can anybody help me out with abit of info about my car ???

i need some help to try an find out a little bit of info about my car i would like to know where and what work has been done to my car how many owners ect" the engine number is rb30117488a axle code :r11 vin:6h91mportwhf79096 can anybody help me out with abit of info about my car please ???

post-66218-1251871496_thumb.jpg

post-66218-1251871509_thumb.jpg

post-66218-1251871523_thumb.jpg

thank you for your help ... the engine number is rb30117488a axle code :r11 vin:6h91mportwhf79096 can anybody help me out with abit of info about my car ???

You'll need the chassis number BNR32 etc etc so we can check it on FAST. Are there any other marking around the car to suggest what Mine's parts are inside it?

Your best bet would probably be to contact Mine's themselves, although don't be surprised if they haven't kept records going back that far.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛
    • I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.
    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
×
×
  • Create New...