Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wondering...

ive been told that the engine seals start to wear out on the GTR motor's at around 100-150,000km's is this true? and how can you prevent this or what happens when this occurs....does this mean a whole new rebuild?

cheers

P.S this might be a load of shit i dunno....just heard it from a few people one of the guys owns a FD series 8 rx-7 though( could be abit one eyed)

Edited by Fat-magz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286302-engine-seals-on-gtrs/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a myth, it's a racing engine afterall not a taxi engine.. about 150,000km you are probably looking at a rebuild anyway, though only if compression is below certain limits for that specific engine (rb20, rb25, rb30 etc are all different)

wats good compression for a r33 gtr? do you know

cheers

the R32 service manual for the RB26DETT specifies the cylinder compression lower limit as 121psi, with no more than 14psi difference between adjoining cylinders.

Front crank seal started to leak on my r33GTR eng a few years back, pulled balancer off and changed it in situ. No more leak. Rear seal was still good.

My 33 RB26 eng comp tested with stock cams at 155-160psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...