Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone heard of them and will it be good enough for use on a rebuild. It is graded up to 0.0001" and is electronic to leave less room for error. I am not sure on the brand but being that it is down to 0.0001" I am thinking it has to be fairly accurate and should work on both rods, cylinder bore, and the mains as well. What do you guys think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-2-6-000...omotiveQ5fTools

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286362-dial-bore-gauge/
Share on other sites

Has anyone heard of them and will it be good enough for use on a rebuild. It is graded up to 0.0001" and is electronic to leave less room for error. I am not sure on the brand but being that it is down to 0.0001" I am thinking it has to be fairly accurate and should work on both rods, cylinder bore, and the mains as well. What do you guys think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-2-6-000...omotiveQ5fTools

You will also need a set of micrometers to qualify the bore gauge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286362-dial-bore-gauge/#findComment-4804876
Share on other sites

+1 ^

And just because it's digital, does not mean it is more accurate. Tap in on the bench and it could go out of calibration. Same with anything really, I just like to be able to see the dial so probably just personal preference really.

If it's a bore gauge, then it will probably only go down to 2inch (50mm) which means you won't be using it on any RB engine really. It will only do the bore, or the mains. Or the big ends on a 30 but with no bearings in place.

Spend the coin on a good set of Mitutoyo micrometers from 1-2inch and 2-3inch. Let your engineer do the bore work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286362-dial-bore-gauge/#findComment-4804964
Share on other sites

Don't worry about dial bore gauges or digital bore gauges get a standard telescopic bore gauge. you'll need a set do do all the work your talking about and then a set of good micrometers.

make sure you know how to use a bore gauge too... it's not as simple as hold it where you think is perpendicular.

failing that use a ruler and have a guess :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286362-dial-bore-gauge/#findComment-4805044
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you don't touch the CAS, then you're fine.
    • Yeah, my moulds and seals are 32 years old now. I think I will continue to not use a pressure washer on it.
    • I hear the old "I'd never use a pressure washer on my motorbike" BS in the dirtbike community too.  The only people that have had a problem from using a pressure washer on anything are the people that aren't using them properly.  If you hold the wand any more than 45 cms away from pretty much anything (radiators, wiring connectors, paint, etc) you aren't going to cause any damage.  We've had detailers wreck moulds and seals on cars at work before and the only reason why is they held the pressure washer too close and on the one spot for too long.  If you have 5% more brain power than a detailer then you know not to not do that and you'll never have a problem.
    • I'm pretty much healed up post surgery so I spent another almost full day out in the shed re-arranging everything to make room for all of the shit that I've taken off the car.  I need to get everything off the floor and away from the car for when I start making a massive mess stripping off the remaining body deadener and then for the the painting process.  Almost got the shed to a point now where I feel I can actually start working on the car again (clean shed clean mind or something!).  Almost 11 years of accumulated car parts, building supplies, tools, junk, etc have taken a long time to get in some sort of order again!  Most stuff is now boxed up and in the back shed if it's not car related.  Most people would still be horrified walking into my shed but it's significantly better than it was before!   For those that saw my separate post the other day, yeah I ordered one.... This version- I convinced myself to stop being a clown, wake up to yourself and realise it will take you 5 weeks to make one by which stage you're over working on the car again...  Maybe I am getting on top of my "mental ailments" and making smarter choices.... $1450 delivered which will take my miserable half-dutch arse a few days to get over having spent that much!  If I don't have a use for it straight away after my car is off it I might even see if there is a "rental market" for them.  See if anyone wants to hire it for a period of time.  $25 a week or something like that.  I'll worry about that when my car is actually ready to come off it though as that might be a while away!! There's now no excuses now for not ending up with an underside you could eat off! Away for kids sport the next few weekends so hopefully can get the rotisserie assembled ready to go for the car to go straight on it the next available weekend.    
    • I always use my Karcher, but it's only a little one that I picked up from Supercheap  The only issue I ever had with a pressure washer was when I was a kid cleaning coaches, they had a hi-po industrial sized petrol jobbie that would strip paint if you got to close I saying this, we have a fairly high power washer at work with a diesel powered heater that sprays water at about 60°c, it works great for removing old wax and road grime on the underbody after some foam cannon action, albeit from a "stand off" distance of a few feet
×
×
  • Create New...