Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello there i got a R34 gtt which is basically looking to stock for me . i looked at carmate.com and found this sweet ass looking front bar which is for the GTR. what i wana know is will it be a perfect fit to a GTT? i know ill probably have to find a gtr style bonnet in order for the bar to fit nicely but iam just unsure if the bar will fit onto the car.would you say i need to get wider fenders as well?

pleaase anyone who has done this conversion or got any info iam all ears cheers.

post-35080-1251983611_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286490-r34-gtr-front-bar-for-gtt/
Share on other sites

If it's for a GT-R, it won't be a perfect fit as GT-R's have wider guards than GT-T's.

In saying that, if you really like the bar you can have it modified at any bodyshop who can work fibreglass.

I have a GT-R front bar on my 32 but I have a little experience with fibreglass and I modified it to suit.

If you have the will though, there is always a way.

Good luck on what you decide man.

only what i got atm,

ive readjusted it since and the gap to the bonnet has been reduced quite a bit.

oh6y2o.jpg

10e0jzb.jpg

Just like what they did in Fast & Furious 4...put OEM GTR front bar, sideskirts, wing and rear bar on a R34 GTT for the movie - it was actually a GTT as most of us probably know. However, it's the OEM stuff that makes it look tough.

  • 3 weeks later...
Just like what they did in Fast & Furious 4...put OEM GTR front bar, sideskirts, wing and rear bar on a R34 GTT for the movie - it was actually a GTT as most of us probably know. However, it's the OEM stuff that makes it look tough.

Actually they used an east bear masterpiece body kit on a GTT with GTR badges etc for the movie.

carmate = fail

carmate + fibreglass frontbar = EPIC fail.

Your choice. I wouldn't put a fibreglass frontbar on as they're too brittle ..it will crack first time you hit one of those parking bumps.

that's bs.. i got a fiberglass do-luck front bar on mine.. it's low as and i bump parking blocks (on occasion) and it also hits speed bumps (although i go over slowly... very slowly lol) and it just scrapes.. fiberglass doesnt just crack when it hits something.. unless you drive into it at speed. they have some give and i even hit my driveway coming in and going out (sometimes) and all it does is scrape, they still have movement in them..

and if you get any cracks in the bar (they are usually small and confined).. you can take them to get patched up fairly easy..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...