Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, not sure where to put this as I'm not selling anything personally but just seeing who might be interested in an aftermarket airbox/heatshield.

I'm getting one made up for myself locally out of stainless steel but thought some of you might be interested in this too so ill give you a run down of what I'm getting and if anyone is interested I can pass the details on to you...

Basically its laser cut and made to sit in the passenger side corner behind the headlight, its got an opening through the side for the afm to attach to and have a pod on the inside as well as a cut out to clear the hot pipe for the inter cooler.

I haven't got pics of it installed but I do have some 3d renderings which ill photoshop inside the engine bay later to give you a better idea.

th_ss1.jpg th_ss2.jpg th_ss4.jpg

Price is around $130 for basic stainless steel airbox in either polished finish or powdercoated in a basic colour (black,white,red,blue etc)

However, for a bit extra you can have custom metal finish (zinc, blue gold, chrome etc) or custom powdercoated colour as well as custom engraving or cut outs on the lid. pretty much anything can be done such as a forum user name, number plate, jap brand name etc... (all laser cut)

I havent got exact pricing for all the extras but I can inquire about it if anyone wants it.

If enough people are interested ill set up a group buy.

Thanks :D

- Marko

Edited by SkyHi_33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286501-interest-for-aftermarket-airboxes/
Share on other sites

f**k man, thats damn cheap. if its available for the s14 id be keen.

I'll ask, they will need a base car to take measurements etc for tho but if there's enough interest i don't see why not.

Another thing I forgot to mention is that the airbox is all press bent so its basically a perfect finish and should bolt up to stock mounting points around that area.

hell, they can use my car as the test run...

... if i can lowball myself a discount. :D

(actually, with the s14 one, could probably start marketing it on ns, s14 and s15 = same)

Edited by scandyflick

I'm making some out of Carbon fiber for RB25DET R34 . If you make them out SS will absorb heat too much !!! actually bet the temps will be higher then the lack of airbox ? unless its aluminum ???

My designs have a top that can be removed for the defect police and the second generation will be two carbon fiber snorkles into a KN style filter a hi volume factory box completely sealed off from below as well and include heat shield option on the back side.

should have mine done for the car show in loxton, dual snorkles

This carbon one sounds even more advertising... How muchies approx?

Im not selling them yet..lol but If I did around 300 for option 1, option 2 400ish

can make some for other models with a donor car for exact molds to AFM, connection points

will be using aircraft type fasteners , half turn to remove , quick release similar to below

26s51.JPG

Im sure that the Clark rubber heat resistant adhesive foam would counteract the head absorption by not letting the heat affect the air going into the pod. I dont think it is that expensive either, need to get some for my airbox.

Definantely like the look of this set up, but I agree the material is probably wrong.

Im not selling them yet..lol but If I did around 300 for option 1, option 2 400ish

can make some for other models with a donor car for exact molds to AFM, connection points

will be using aircraft type fasteners , half turn to remove , quick release similar to below

26s51.JPG

They look like a pretty smart setup, would like to use them on a whole heap of spots that the crappy plastic ones are. Do they make a version of these for thin panels? It looks like those need something fairly thick to lock into.

I got mine from just jap, had to make a few mods for my pod setup but it does the job.

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1

The also make them in carbon.

enginepic.jpg

Definantely like the look of this set up, but I agree the material is probably wrong.

They look like a pretty smart setup, would like to use them on a whole heap of spots that the crappy plastic ones are. Do they make a version of these for thin panels? It looks like those need something fairly thick to lock into.

these are made for aircraft aluminum skins , so they come in all sorts of sizes, I just grabbed the first example for photo purposes

they only take a half turn to remove them, also come in straight slot screws for use with 5 cent coins , roadside removal ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...