Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Tuning in Australia  

56 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

There has been a little discussion over on 350Z-Tech about ECU Reflash/Tuning of our cars. As we share the same heart (engine) I thought I’d extend the little fact finding exercise I started over at Tech here to better gain an understanding of what VQ owners would want from a tune if it was available. This will assist in determining if there is a business case to develop and take to a tuner (ie UpRev with Osiris). This should only take 2 minutes and I would appreciate your input.

Parameters that the tune will include at minimum:

- Up to 5 Maps on cruise control equipped vehicles

- Idle RPM

- Speed Limiter

- Electronic Throttle Control to achieve Wide Open Throttle at all speeds.

- Rev Limiter

- DTC disable

- AFR Targets

- Fuel Compensation

- Ignition Timing Advance

- Cam Phasing for equipped vehicles.

Additional questions (optional):

4. What features in would you like to see in addition to those listed above?

5. What on-going support would you like to receive from the tuner?

6. Any other comments.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286582-survey-ecu-reflashtune-in-australia/
Share on other sites

Thanks to those for their replies to date. It is very beneficial knowing what the community is looking for before approaching the tuner.

If you haven't replied and are interested I encourage you to do so.

Thanks,

one thing that i'm really interested on ECU tuning features is the raising Rev Limit and Speed Limit removal as well. the rest is just the same thing A/F ratio, ignition timing, etc, which unichip can do.

  pw350gt said:
one thing that i'm really interested on ECU tuning features is the raising Rev Limit and Speed Limit removal as well. the rest is just the same thing A/F ratio, ignition timing, etc, which unichip can do.

I've looked at a couple of reflashes in detail and narrowed the list two products that would be best for the Aussie market. Both offer these features.

  V35 Matt said:
How much HP/KW gain could be had from a ECU tune? Say with a plenum, intake and exhaust?

+1 to pw350gt.

It all depends on your car. Tuning doesn't create power, it unleashes it. Tuning is efficiency and a by-product of that will be more power. So if your car is in good shape, and there are gains to be made, there will be gains made. Add more parts that add a mechanical advantage, and the tuning will net you even more gain.

Edited by Aust350z
  V35_Paul said:
if i got an extra 10rwkw for $750 i would pretty happy :(

I'm pretty sure my dyno runs (with a cat-back and Popcharger) pre-ECU and post-ECU netted me around 10rwkW on the Z33. Note that was with the stock 6600RPM cutout, since I use a Unichip and hadn't reflashed my ECU yet.

I might have found a bit more if I could have revved the engine up to 7000RPM back then since the power curve didn't really fall away that much at the end of the graph.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I'll be following up early in the new year. Tuner shop approached was interested but requires them to get more involved.

I'll also add that the chosen reflash is Orisis from Uprev. Comes in three options (a) flash; (b) standard; © tuner. More info for those interested can be found at www.uprev.com

Uprev is also very keen to establish a Pro Tuner(s) in Australia.

Edited by Aust350z
  BLISTC said:
let me see what i can do i know someone who may be willing to become a pro tuner

I'm all for someone working on getting this to the Sydney market :geek:

My goal is to have a Pro Tuner in Melb by end of March 2010.

  Aust350z said:
My goal is to have a Pro Tuner in Melb by end of March 2010.

Sounds excellent - I am most interested in a local tuner. Would it mean we still purchase Osiris directly from UpRev or from the local tuner (wary of the usual USD-AUD crazy markups, especially with the strong dollar at the moment)?

From your enquiries, is there any reason we couldn't buy the Tuner version of Osiris and use it on our cars already (not that I am saying I would be able to tune it). Is it currently compatible with JDM cars or will the software need modifications?

  MaXiMuS007 said:
Would it mean we still purchase Osiris directly from UpRev or from the local tuner (wary of the usual USD-AUD crazy markups, especially with the strong dollar at the moment)?

Would purchase from the local tuner at an AUD price. I wouldn't worry about this just yet :blush:

  MaXiMuS007 said:
From your enquiries, is there any reason we couldn't buy the Tuner version of Osiris and use it on our cars already (not that I am saying I would be able to tune it). Is it currently compatible with JDM cars or will the software need modifications?

I would need to check comparability with JDM cars now but it is one of stages to reverse engineer the ECU to local markets (ie: Australian Z33). If ECU already compatible then nothing stopping you buying now. If you get the Tuner though you forgo Uprev support.

Edited by Aust350z
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • $53.35 and a double din Pioneer head unit that I have...
    • Put a camera facing your dashboard so you can film the gauges. Head out to a straight but of road, and filming it as you go from a stand still at wide open throttle to as fast as you can/feel comfortable doing. Then film the dash board as you for example accelerate like normal onto a freeway. This will give us an indicator from Speedo of your expectation of slow, and will give us the rpm reading too to see if it's shifting. (Auto still has tacho from memory)
    • Buy yourself the cooling system pressure tester. Being able to pump it up, and have a gauge on it, AND have a cold engine makes it much easier / practical to diagnose. Additionally as the engine isn't running, you can listen for pin hole leaks as well as watching if pressure drops away. In addition, you can pressurise and while doing so, watch all the little rubber hoses. Some fail very brittle, and will just leak, while others can end up very soft and bulge. While a bulging hose isn't necessarily leaking, one of those small ones starting to stretch / expand in a bad way is an indicator that you'll be looking to replace that one soon   Depending on if this is a project car, or you'll be dailying it in the summer months would alter how I'd be most comfortable with driving the car and how I'd replace. If you're planning to use it as a daily, with no backup, I'd pull the engine, and replace all the external oil/water lines in one big swoop. At the same time do the timing belt, water pump, tensioners etc. Do not open the engine at all. We just want to replace all the things that are inexpensive as a single item, but a PITA when they go. By doing the above, you've made the car from a bunch of age related issues more reliable. If it's a project, and you like swearing while trying to reach into dirty hard to reach places to replace a single hose that may or may not be the leaky one. Just replace the leaking/bad ones as they need it. If it's a project and you'd rather swear at the car once and enjoy it as much as possible, then refer to the process I mentioned in how I'd want to do it if it were a daily. However, the approaches above do come down to how much spare pocket change you have. Pulling the engine and dropping over a thousand dollars on parts, may not be practical for you. Oh, if engine outing, I'd replace as many silicon/rubber inlet joiners as possible too.
    • Yeah, they're pretty dumb though...ie; they'll throw a solenoid error if the solenoid is dead, shorted, wiring is open circuit, or even if the driver transistor has failed (they can't self-diagnose much, they can only test inputs/outputs)... but if you wanted to try, I believe it's this protocol....(uses a long pulse indicator with short pulse counter)...    
    • Yeah I'll do what I can without taking off any major parts for now. If it becomes clear I won't get far with the engine in the car I'll have to think about the next steps. I am not too stuck on keeping everything 100% OEM, if there is better solutions, like converting most lines to braided with AN adapters, I'd rather do that than buy overpriced new "shit" parts.
×
×
  • Create New...