Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:P

I am new to this forum ,but would like to share my method of converting the cluster from the original orange lighting, to new fresh LED lights

I haven't taken any pictures of the process of taking the cluster out, and pulling it apart, but will be happy to explain how to, if someone gets stuck.

Apart from that everything else I tried to capture

BEFORE YOU TAKE THE ARROWS OFF, MAKE SURE YOU MARK OFF THE POSITION OF THEM, WITH A SMALL DOT, WITH A MARKER(I simply moves each arrow until it stopped in a certain direction and put a mark there)

1. TO TAKE THE ARROWS OFF, I USED 2 BUTTER KNIVES, SLID THEM UNDER THE ARROWS AND TWISTED THEM IN OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS, TO FORCE THE ARROW UP

2. SOMETHING TO NOTE!!! THE CLUSTER USES NEGATIVE TERMINALS TO SWITCH THE LIGHT ON AND OFF

VOLTAGE IS QUITE LOW, COMPARING OTHER 12 V CLUSTERS!!! THE VOLTAGE IS 7.6 VOLTS, THEREFORE I USED 150 OHM RESISTORS!!!

DO NOT USED RESISTORS WHICH SCOME WITH LEDS THAT YOU BUY OFF EBAY!! AS THEY ARE 680 OHMS, THE LIGHTS WILL TURN OUT TOO DULL!!!

3. THE LEDs I USED HAVE A HIGH CONCENTRATION OF LIGHT, SO I FILED THEM DOWN TO A FLAT TIP, WHICH MADE THE LIGHT SPREAD MORE (NOT THE ARROW LEDs)

4. BEFORE YOU UNPLUG THE CLUSTER OFF, MAKE SURE YOU TEST EACH SOCKET OF THE BULBS, WITH A VOLTMETER, TO FIND WHERE THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE TERMINALS ARE, AS LEDS NEED RIGHT POLARITY TO WORK

5. I ALSO CHANGED THE HIGH BEAM TO LED AND INDICATORS TO LEDS, BUT PLEASE NOTE, USE 300 OHM RESISTORS FOR THEM, AS THEY ARE 11.2 VOLTS

Here's what I've done, to achieve RED arrows, or you can do it with just about any color LEDs

Basically the prism you will find inside the cluster had 4 extensions coming out to 4 bulbs, to collect as much light as possible, what I've done is cut them and attached a red LED to the cut part of the prism.

I just MELTED the led contacts into the plastic, by pushing onto it with a soldering iron, But you can hot glue it if you like

As for the fuel/temp prisms, there's only 1 extension to the prism, which I also cut

Here's the photos

post-65692-1252055041_thumb.jpg

post-65692-1252054735_thumb.jpg

THIS PHOTO HERE shows that the RED light is reflected by the prism, and shot upward towards where the arrow is

post-65692-1252055135_thumb.jpg

This is what I've done with the LED's Just prepared them, and put them in pairs of 2, to use in the positions of the bulbs

As for the REVS dial, with a bit of red on the end, I used a red LED, so it slowly fades form white ro red in the end

post-65692-1252055396_thumb.jpg

Here's what the cluster looks like from the front, with LEDs soldered in

post-65692-1252055536_thumb.jpg

And this photo has both LEDs soldered to the circuit + the prism with led attached (I used a computer IDE cable, cus the wires from it, and extended the contacts to the back of the board)

post-65692-1252055701_thumb.jpg

And here it is with power to it, and TAPE OVER THE RED LED, NOT TO GET THE RED MIXING WITH THE WHITE

post-65692-1252055909_thumb.jpg

With facia on, and power on!

post-65692-1252057885_thumb.jpg

AND THE FINAL RESULT!!!!

post-65692-1252057964_thumb.jpg

GOOD LUCK IF YOU EVER GET TO DO IT,1 IT'S REALLY NOT THAT HARD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286597-stagea-m35-nm35-led-conversions/
Share on other sites

thank you... i hate my orange lights....

is it possible to change the lights behind the nav buttons and the lights in the boost volt and temb gauges?

I'll be doing a CD Radio Nav conversion next week, so I'll take detailed pics

Im sure they are just SMD LEDs (Little square ones), that just need to be changed over.

I'll keep you guys posted

Nice work man!

Would love a step by step to remove the cluster (I have found I can damage stuff easily :P )

I too like my orange lights, but the one behind the gear display has gone out and need to be replaced.

Nice work man!

Would love a step by step to remove the cluster (I have found I can damage stuff easily :domokun: )

I too like my orange lights, but the one behind the gear display has gone out and need to be replaced.

Thanks!!

I've posted another topic of how to remove the cluster out

Here's a link

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...va-t286664.html

CENTER CONSOLE LED CONVERSION INSTRUCTIONS

Just a follow up, with some instructions on how to remove the center panel, and change The heated seats button Lamps to LEDs, as well as the backlight for the shifter

FISRT MAKE SURE THE SHIFTER IS IN DRIVE, FOR EASY ACCESS

Here's what you have to do first, unclip the bottom plastic cover from underneath the shifter, slide it down and take out the metal C Clip

post-65692-1252126724_thumb.jpg post-65692-1252126768_thumb.jpg post-65692-1252128608_thumb.jpg

Now the whole center panel should freely pop up and come off

post-65692-1252128652_thumb.jpg

This is what it looks like from underneath, with everything attached to it, NOTE IN THE MIDDLE, THERE'S RED AND BLACK CABLE WITH A TWIST SOCKET BULB, THIS IS BACK LIGHT FOR THE SHIFTER (T10 BULB)

post-65692-1252128805_thumb.jpg

Now once you've unclipped all the connectors and taken out the center panel, take out the Heated Steate switches, by undoing the clips with a flat head screw driver

post-65692-1252128860_thumb.jpg

The switches have 2 clips on both sides, you have to take out the center part, with flat head screw driver again (Be careful not to break the plastic, its a little tricky, if you break it, dont worry, nothing that supe glue can't fix! :(

post-65692-1252128934_thumb.jpg

You will find, there's 2 ligh bulbs on the switch, 1 12 volt hallogen bulb, and 1 LED (Both of them have 12V Source, LED Bulb has a resistor soldered onto it already)

post-65692-1252129041_thumb.jpg

YOu have to remove the LED and the Light bulb out of the rubber housings, BUT REMEMBER THE POLARITY OF THE LED

post-65692-1252129133_thumb.jpg

I've basically put 2 LED's instead of the original bulbs with 300 ohm resistors. BULBS HAVE THE VERY END TERMINAL, BLUE WIRE AS A NEGATIVE!!!

I've also filed the LED's, to make the light spread more, and to make a bit more room, for the switch to work properly

This is what it looks like with a RED LED for the backlight, and WHITE LED for the indicator switch

post-65692-1252129326_thumb.jpg

GOOD LUCK

;)

post-65692-1252129204_thumb.jpg

G35 set up?

more info plz?

If you go to www.ebay.com <---- US EBAY

Type up "G35 Navigation"

Plenty of second hand units with english navigation units and radio that works here, as US frequencies are the same as here

Basically infiniti, is same as skyline, just a re badge

It costs a fair bit to get it here, but in the end its all worth it I reckon

I wont have the Jap writing anymore, and will have the Fuel Consumption display as well....which is good... ;)

Glad you guys liked it!

Soon I'll be changing the CD RADIO and NAV lights, after my INFINITI G35 Setup comes in

Then I'll upload some more steps on DIY

This guy's right! No TV on these but the Nav stuff should work. English buttons if you want to go that way. Full BOSE system also if you want to go that way.Why haven't we heard this before? Around $550 USD

Nissan6CDG35NAVP.jpg

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
    • Wow the colour matched hard top completely transforms the car. Are there any nice front lip options for the car or is that off the table?
    • Generally yes but for some reason I've been ruthless this time around!  I might even need to do another tip run after the way I've finally been able to hit the delete button on shit I've stepped over, stepped around and tripped over for the past 10 years!
    • I just quote the Rolling Stones. Paint it black.
×
×
  • Create New...