Jump to content
SAU Community

Recomended Coolant For Gt T R34

shehris

By shehris,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

There's something I always hate, having to topup unknown existing coolant risking a reaction between the 2.

The best you can do is Genuine Nissan Long-Life Coolant (LLC), from a Nissan dealership. 1 litre of concentrate cost $10-$15 and makes 2-3litres (depending on a 50:50 or 66:33 mix of water:concentrate).

The cheaper option is Nulon concentrate that meats the Nissan specification (Nissan LLC I think is the technical name)

Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

get the Nulon Pre-Mixed (green) coolant ..I paid $20 per 5l canister just the other day. Don't just top up.

If you've got an hour or 2 I'd highly recommend taking out the factory radiator and hosing the fins down (carefully) mine was completely blocked with bugs and dirt.

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Flush the system, and use genuine Nissan LLC. But don't mix it stronger than 60:40.

If you use the genuine stuff, and change it every couple of years, the alloy bits won't corrode, simple as that.

  • 7 months later...
Selleck 34GTT Proficient

Selleck 34GTT

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys, just bought GT-T R34 pretty much stock overall. Noticed the coolant is way below the low line...is there something you guys recommend and from where I can get it or can I pick up anything from the shelf.

Thanks

Hey guy any chance you would know how many litres an r34 gtt would hold as im replacing the radiator and dont know whether to buy the 5ltr LLC ($62) or a couple of 1litre ones at $16 each

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted (edited)

Its inbetween 7-8L (cant remember) you dont need 5L because you have too mix is with demineralised water. I suggest 4L or less of LLC and the rest demineralised water too get a 50\50 min or less. To much coolant and you wont be helping your engine cool at all.

Edited by central coast person
Wacky Dee Veteran

Wacky Dee

Posted
Posted

it takes 9 litres for the whole system but you will struggle to get even 3l in there unless you properly flush the whole cooling system (there's a few threads about that too) Don't forget to bleed the air.

  • 14 years later...
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

I think you'll find that with modified cars, the radiator has to come out more often than once every 2 years, meaning this generally gets cycled pretty well lol.

If I had a car that had been sitting for 5+ years I'd probably flush the coolant. Coolant really shouldn't go off. It's main purpose is to inhibit rust and stop the whole thing from freezing, the latter not really being an issue here.

silviaz Experienced

silviaz

Posted
Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I think you'll find that with modified cars, the radiator has to come out more often than once every 2 years, meaning this generally gets cycled pretty well lol.

If I had a car that had been sitting for 5+ years I'd probably flush the coolant. Coolant really shouldn't go off. It's main purpose is to inhibit rust and stop the whole thing from freezing, the latter not really being an issue here.

Ah ok. I put in a new radiator previously and flushed the coolant out at the same time but it is getting to that 2 year mark. My car is pretty much a daily driver in a sense but haven't put heaps of km on it.

Edited by silviaz
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

The only other time I changed it is when I noticed it had become discoloured after a few track days (it was .. yellowish). So I drained and refilled the rad. 

I think most people are in this situation. It's not like the car ran any cooler after I changed the coolant either. I'm gonna go with "If it makes you feel better, change it!"

  • Like 1
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
55 minutes ago, silviaz said:

The nissan manual says to change coolant every 2 years. Is this still necessary if you're using coolant like Penrite or nulon which has improved over the years? It says it lasts 500,000km which seems hard to believe lol.

If you fully flushed and filled it's probably good for 5 years. I would not push it any further than that. Generally speaking coolant is more by time than by mileage. Rust wants to happen whether you're driving it 50,000 km or 80,000 km.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...