Jump to content
SAU Community

Condensation In My Headlights =s


dozey05
 Share

Recommended Posts

You need to remove the headlight and find the leak and seal it or else it's just going to reoccur.

As far as getting rid of what's in there, your best option is more than likely going to be to go for a night cruise so your headlights are on for enough time to evaporate the condensation that's in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Mine's doing the same thing, if I remember someone told me it was cos my front bumper was sagging which made the seal not fit as it should or something ..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check on the top of the headlight, there should be a rubber seal near the indicator side, mine wasn't sealed properly as i can pry it out with my fingers and it exposes a hole to the insides, i believ this is where my headlights fog up/get cloudy from.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check on the top of the headlight, there should be a rubber seal near the indicator side, mine wasn't sealed properly as i can pry it out with my fingers and it exposes a hole to the insides, i believ this is where my headlights fog up/get cloudy from.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My R34's headlights have been like this since I got it from import, but they seem to have a murky type of film on the inside of the glass. Does anybody know if the light housing and the glass separates? ...Is there a way of cleaning it out?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My R34's headlights have been like this since I got it from import, but they seem to have a murky type of film on the inside of the glass. Does anybody know if the light housing and the glass separates? ...Is there a way of cleaning it out?

It does, but you have to heat it up in an oven or with a heatgun to soften the sealer, then pry it apart. Depends how game you are.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It does, but you have to heat it up in an oven or with a heatgun to soften the sealer, then pry it apart. Depends how game you are.

hhmmm, that sounds a bit of a challenge. What would i use to re-seal them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

black silicon!

google how to remove supra headlights and there are few tutorials on the internet to do it.

I know it might sound simple, but i don't want to just do something blindly, thanks dori34!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

hmm sounds easy enough .. but knowing me, i'll probably heat the glass, pry it off, shatter everywhere and in my eyes lol

will defs be giving this a go though, cheers for the info Artz!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

Thanx ARTZ, I'll swallow my fears of the unknown and have a go at it, might try to get some pix to post for everybody else

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I know a some people lights are real bad on the inside, but sometimes u might be suprised at how dirty/foggy the outsides are.

In my pic i left the bottom left corner dirty for you to see the difference, I clean mine once in a while with Autosol. comes up beautiful! Def worth a try before pulling things apart. It works good on foggy looking indicators too:)

IMG_2282.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, yeah, nah. Speakers have a nominal impedance of 8 ohm that looks more like 6.4 ohm when measured. The receiver's amplifiers (all channels) are all rated to 6 ohm (I think, it's been a long time since I cared). The real problem is that many modern class D amps have aggressive protection circuitry that cuts off the fun if they think too much current is being drawn. And with my speakers having series crossovers, as opposed to more typical parallel crossovers, and big TL enclosures, they can certainly dip down to lower impedances at some frequencies and that easily triggers the protection. Pioneer receivers are somewhat famous for it, but even Denon, Onkyo, et al, all have many complaints against them across various models. It only does it when listening to music at high levels. You have to be putting your ears at risk to do it. But sometimes I want to do that. If I was serious about using it as a listening room I'd simply upgrade the amp for the front pair to a nice Rotel or something, and just use the receiver for signal handling and processing - although that would be a bit of a pain in the arse too. Have to switch on more shit, pre-amp volume vs main amp volume, etc etc.
    • yeah pretty much, stopped playing after lightfall, couldnt be bothered with the final shape...  ran that game into the ground for years... bit of a shame.. the  story was awesome. was playing a lot of trials but the hackers became tooo much, ruined the game.  
    • This is why you don't get invited to press events.         Kodi
    • For example, you’ll need this approval if: you’re a car enthusiast looking to import a specialist vehicle or an older car you want to bring your vehicle with you when you move to Australia you manufacture or import special purpose vehicles or a small number of trailers each year.       Tutuapp 9Apps
    • I reckon you are 100% right on the money. The only reason I bought Red Sport instead of the base VR30 is that I am investigating racing it in Production Cars, and they require you to run a (mostly) standard car....therefore knowing exactly what was in the RS spec was important to me and I paid the extra. Other than that, for sure I would have pocketed the $10k and spent them on mods instead. Plus the non-RS models are more likely to have had a nicer life prior. Just a warning though, mods always cost twice as much as they look like they will on paper BTW you should also consider the 400R imports, they are about the same price as a local RS but 5+ years newer. Of course that comes with the usual warnings about finding parts, unhelpful nissan dealers and finding insurance
×
×
  • Create New...