Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I noticed after driving from Brisbane to Toowoomba that my car almost stalls...

Basically its a 2 hour drive at 100km/hr and when you slow down to 60kms its fine but if I stop at lights or the revs drop real low the car shudders like its about to stall...

Is this a coolant issue or a sign that I need to get that FMIC already??

I drive about 30mins at 100km/hr twice daily and it does not do that so its only on those long drives, its almost at 110,000 on the clock, last service was 100,000

Well...cars are built to withstand idling with no air flow, excluding thermal fans, for hours on end without overheating or stalling due to heat. If your temp guage isn't through the roof, than i doubt it would be a heat issue. There's heaps of post up about stopping at lights stalling, so have a quick search. Most common being an atmo bov, aac valve issue, etc. You get the picture. Good luck.

Hmmmm, well my R33 GTST is 100% stock atm. So def not BOV issue. It only happens when the car is toasty after a long drive, normal driving around town does not get this issue at all.

  MSTRshenanigans said:
Hmmmm, well my R33 GTST is 100% stock atm. So def not BOV issue. It only happens when the car is toasty after a long drive, normal driving around town does not get this issue at all.

You'd probly find that the motor is cooler after a 2hour drive @ 100km/h than it would be nipping around town :)

Maybe, I dunno like the turbo is hot hot hot. The only time I've done the drive and stopped (turn off the car) it wouldn't start for a few tries (didn't let it cool).

BUt its just strange, drive to Brisbane, hit the Ipswich road 60km area and any time I come to a stop it acts the dog until I've been driving that speed for 20mins (til I get to the north side).

I'll give the flush a try though.

  • 4 weeks later...

Stupid question, what does AAC stand for, and what does it do to control the idle? I have a similar problem (though in difference circumstances) where my car idles terribly, almost stalling right after starting it cold. Blipping the throttle fixes this though, but I'd rather not have to do that...Admittedly it's probably entirely unrelated, but thought I'd have a look while I'm here :P

AAC = auxilary air control. it opens and closes when things like the aircon is turned on or the steering is turned. it adjusts the idle to cope with the extra strain put on the motor by those things

you issue could be the cold start valve or the IAC (idle air control). i'd start with the idle control valve as it is much easier to get to and because of the fact that if you rev it it clears.

Well the car's currently in the shop getting the exhaust manifold gasket+studs replaced lol, so I think I'll give them a call and advise there's another thing to add to the list of "oh can you please look at this too? thx"

haha thanks for the info :whistling:

Troy it's really very easy to do yourself so if you haven't already called your mechanic, don't worry... just pull it off when you get the car back :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...