Got 3.5k To Spend On R32 Gts-t

[IM-32-FK]

1- get a engine rebuild. My current rb20det has done 180,000km. Now, if it was a naturally aspirated car, it would be alright. But tubrocharged engines wear much quicker than NA engines. I can get this done for about $2500- $3000. If i do this, i wont have much money left, and wont be able to buy a aftermarket turbo. So if i do get this, i will only most likely get a r33 turbo since it bolts straight on to a rb20det.

2- Get a turbo performance package. Ill buy a turbo for about 1.5k - 2k. I will also get minor performance mods, such as cams, bigger intercooler, cold air intake etc...

3- get a rb25det. The block will cost me anywhere between 1k-2k + installation costs. Ill also need to get a new gearbox...(do i?)

what is the best option for a good performance boost and reliability? what do you think about this?

Thanks.

PS: I heard that if you put a cold air intake into your turbo car, it will flutter. True or false?

Edited September 9, 2009 by IM-32-FK

[N1GTR]

Here's your other thread, it has 2 replies

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4803324

Basically yeah, get an RB25 in there and there goes your budget.

To get any big increase in power, you'll need a lot more than 3.5k

[Krishy]

i suggest keep driving it and keep saving some $$$ and when finally the 20 pops then you could either rebuild it as a 2.2 stroker or whatever....i would say it still has some life left in it so why not use it

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

RB25DET conversion.

Flutter will only come from an aftermarket BOV or how ever you set up your piping / modifying for the BOV.

Any aftermarket pod filters will give you some sort of 'Choo' noise.

[GT-RZ]

flutter if you have a BOV just means it's doing a crap job. Removing a BOV will give you flutter.

Hard piping just amplifies any sound that would be absorbed by the plastic/rubber OEM stuff.

[IM-32-FK]

Here's your other thread, it has 2 replies

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4803324

Basically yeah, get an RB25 in there and there goes your budget.

To get any big increase in power, you'll need a lot more than 3.5k

is the engine a straight bolt on? will i need to get a different gearbox? also, whats the difference between a series 1 and a series 2 rb25det?

Edited September 9, 2009 by IM-32-FK

[IM-32-FK]

anyone want to answer my questions?

[N1GTR]

All those questions have been asked ans answered in great detail before, do a search and you'll find those threads

[Krishy]

is the engine a straight bolt on? will i need to get a different gearbox? also, whats the difference between a series 1 and a series 2 rb25det?

As mentioned by N1GTR

but i will yab on about somethings that i know

Some say that a RB25DET S2 are powerful then a S1.....i beg to differ....the difference's that i found was that S1 and S2 use different coilpacks and also the wiring loom for the ECU is different as well....apart from that there isnt much differences....you will definitely need a RB25 gearbox as the motor wont accept the RB20 gearbox.....PM rad32 on these forums....he has done a RB25DET conversion in a 32 mate....he will be able to help you out a lot in that regards.

have fun

[Simon-S14]

the motor WILL accept a RB20 box and really if its a street car and 200 odd rwkw is your aim then keep the 20 box. otherwise upgrade to the stronger 25 box.

Personally i'd sell your 20 and box and put that cash along with your current money into a 25 swap + mods

[09ONE_32]

As mentioned by N1GTR

but i will yab on about somethings that i know

Some say that a RB25DET S2 are powerful then a S1.....i beg to differ....the difference's that i found was that S1 and S2 use different coilpacks and also the wiring loom for the ECU is different as well....apart from that there isnt much differences....you will definitely need a RB25 gearbox as the motor wont accept the RB20 gearbox.....PM rad32 on these forums....he has done a RB25DET conversion in a 32 mate....he will be able to help you out a lot in that regards.

have fun

S2 RB25DET will make more power and it's not because of the coil packs and wiring... They have a slightly better turbo with a nylon compressor wheel.

Go the RB25DET conversion into the R32. It changes a good car into a awesome one.

[PM-R33]

The S2 engine won't make any more power, and if it does it's probably just because it has less wear and tear. The turbo differences was ment for an increase in spool, you would see a bee's dick of difference in power.

But agreed, chuck a RB25 in there for better future power, or build a 30/25.

Edited September 10, 2009 by PM-R33

[Rekin]

Full exhaust (front/dump pipe, hiflow cat, catback) - $1000~ (depending if you have catback already on car, if you do, prob $500 for the other bits)

Intercooler - $300-$500~

Fuel pump - $150-$250~

Ecu management - $250 (Nistune www.nistune.com) + installation $50 = $300~

Z32 airflow meter - $200

Gtr injectors (for rb20 only) $150~ + $150 cleaning = $300~

Thats just a quick summary of supporting mods which can be used along with a rb25 conversion (except the gtr injectors)

Then you can throw in a;

hks 2530/2535 turbo - $1000-$1500

and followed by a tune - $400-$600~

(2530 is best setup for rb20, 2535 is more laggier but can be transferred over to a rb25 and still be okay once the rb20 let goes)

My above prices adds up to around $3500 which will get you around 210-230kw atw on a rb20

and you will also have all supporting mods still left to be used on another engine if it lets go.

Im sure if you get a rb25 conversion you are not going to leave everything else stock and will end up spending extra money in the future.

Comes down if you want rb25 now and slowly add supporting mods to get more power, or build up the rb20 now and worry about it once it let goes.

Im running all the mods above on my 175,000km engine and its running perfectly. Depends how well you have maintained your rb20

Also if you swap to rb25 might as well change the gearbox too as the rb20 box will let go sooner or later.

Hope that helps.

[femno]

....you will definitely need a RB25 gearbox as the motor wont accept the RB20 gearbox.....

= Absolute crock of shit!

...

You wont get much change out of 5k to throw a 25 into your car, by the time you buy the engine (dont buy a block you need the whole engine), have the loom made, and by the sounds of what youre typing you'll need to have someone install it for you (big cost).

You can leave the 20 box in there it will take a STOCK 25 no dramas in terms of strength if you dont abuse it. You can use existing clutch and fly even.

The massive increase in low-end torque and overall power, the potential for awesome power later down the track sets the 25 miles ahead of the 20.

In my opinion if you save some more and go the 25 you definately wont regret it, the 20 is a lazy POS engine that isnt easy to extract decent power from, but it depends what you want. If youre happy with 200kw then stay with the 20.

Spend a whole day searching! There are shitloads of threads exactly the same as this where all these questions are answered!

[Rekin]

In my opinion if you save some more and go the 25 you definately wont regret it, the 20 is a lazy POS engine that isnt easy to extract decent power from, but it depends what you want. If youre happy with 200kw then stay with the 20.

My car doesnt move until after 4000rpm haha

Keeping up in traffic means constantly revving to 4000rpm and making plenty of noise

but the ride from 4000 to 7500 makes up for the 750-4000rpm lag

[James_03]

Save an extra $1500, purchase 26 front cut.

That would be me anyway.

[Roy]

There is no way you should start doing an an RB25 conversion if you only have 3.5k in the bank. Some very quick numbers;

$2000 for a complete RB25 with loom and ECU.

$800 labour is cheap for a typical remove and replace charge from a mechanic.

$100 evacuate and re-gas air con

$500 for new timing belt, idler bearings and tensioner

$150 for coolant, oil and oil filter

So depending on what you have as current mods, intercooler, cam gears, exhaust then this gear will work with an RB25. But the above is a very simplistic view using very optimistic figures for what you need to get done. It doesnt even look at legality or going to the registry and getting the engine number changed on your registration. It doesnt allow for the fact that the wiringhanress needs to be modded. It doesnt allow for the fact that many people have trouble getting the RB20 gearbox to hang together behind an RB25. It doesnt allow for the fact that when you do the conversion you could find your clutch is fried so best to throw a new clutch in there and machine the fly wheel while its all apart to save on future labour costs.

So, the RB25 conversion is a good thing, but after posting here, make sure you do your own homework with your mechanic for pricing. If you had 5k i think you cuold entertain the idea of a conversion, but still have the legality issue. And all that money will only get you 180-190rwkws

And Femno..up yours. RB20s are not POS. If they were then many would have a hard time explaining why when we go to Sandown-PI-Winton why their GTRs/Silvias/GTS25ts are all slower then my car with a std RB20 with bolt on tyrbo upgrade

[badhairdave]

you love your POS's don't you roy

3.5k won't get you anywhere with the 25 conversion as roy has stated. I did mine myself inc rewiring retaining the rb20 box and it still worked out around 2.5k. I already had the clutch, upgraded turbo and a bunch of other things. Add another 1600 min to do the 25 box conversion.

Forget about rebuilding.

Spend your money on a 3071 and some supporting mods and get the stock ecu nistuned. Run it til the engine dies and then chuck in a $500 wrecker engine.

Good times

ps. spend some money on decent brake pads and fluid.

[grandmasterb]

$4000 will get you:

2530

040

gtr injectors

fmic

remap/tune

and will see 220rwk+ no worries which is AMPLE for a street driven car

Have a read of the RB20 thread mate and you will see a common pattern with everyone in there

[Roy]

Oh yeh, 180,000kms for a turbo RB20 is a cake walk. Do not rebuild the motor, especially if the thing is still running. For example, my interanlly std RB20 had 70,000kms done on it when it was imported in 1999. Between 2000 and 2003 i did 50,000kms with the std turbo at 13-15psi and a hell of a lot of days at the track (Wakefield and EC)

At around 120,000kms in 2003 i threw a TD06-20G on it and started making about 215-225rwkws. It continued to get tracked. In mid-late 2004 i got hungry thinking i could get more power and at 150,000kms (i moved from Sydney to Melb that year, and had some work in SA so i racked up a hell of a lot of kms even though the car was in the workshop for 3 months) i played with cams gears and removing the remapped ECU and installed a Power FC. Some bad luck with spanner work and the mods meant the head was damaged at this time. The bottom end was still fine. In fact when the sump was removed the bottom end looked to be in perfect operating order.

So in went the new wrecker engine and i finally got the power i was after, and since then have done another 40,000kms on a wrecker engine makign 235-260rwkws, again with plenty of track work.

So that is a long winded response supporting why you should NEVER even think about doing a pre-emptive rebuild on an RB20, especially when you are only running a std turbo. If not for some wayward spanner work i am reasonably confident my original RB20 woudl still be ablive at 190,000kms