Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Check that all the lines are connected.....that would be the only reason as to why it would be over/free boosting.....from memory R32 actuators are meant to hold 10psi all day every day....if that doesnt work then i would certainly try the boost controller method.....and if still not working then i guess the actuator could be shagged....

Check that all the lines are connected.....that would be the only reason as to why it would be over/free boosting.....from memory R32 actuators are meant to hold 10psi all day every day....if that doesnt work then i would certainly try the boost controller method.....and if still not working then i guess the actuator could be shagged....

took iut foir a run and when i camer back looked at the gate and it was open a little and it seems to wanna go past 10 psi could it be cause of the way the piping is from the actuator to the intake piping???

wheres the line with ya finger go ????atm i have a straight piece of pipe go to the in the top cool pipiing ie intake pipe a little be4 throtle bodyi only have one line from actuator tio i c pipe am i spose to have this one that seems to go no where??

Edited by R33NZSL33PA

Take ALL the factory vac lines off. take the 'T' piece out too.

Run ONE line from the intercooler piping to the actuator.

And Put a blank over the hole where the 3rd line would have gone on the intake pipe.

Done.

Here, i know how hard it is sometimes with describing how to route a line on the internet, so hope this helps.

This is Exactly how MY R33 is set up with an R32 actuator. No Solenoids, bleed valves or EBC's. Straight actuator boost.

Actuator-1.jpg

Everyone loves a good paint jig :)

+1

All you need to do is run a vac line from the wastegate actuator to the intake manifold/pressurised i/c pipe. All the rest of the vac lines can just be blocked off/looped.

Unless the actuator is fecked you should be getting 10psi all day. If you are getting less, do the Rev210 intake mod, as my intake pipe was sucking shut at only ~10psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...