Jump to content
SAU Community

Getrag Input Shaft

aphid
 Share

Recommended Posts

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

Last night I was assembling my 26/30 I've just built from what was left of the rb26 out of my r34 gtr.

I went to line the clutch up as you do with an old input shaft that I have used previously to line the clutch up on my r33 gtst however it wouldn't fit :S

Does anybody know if the input shaft of the getrag 6 speed from the 34 gtrs or if gtrs in general have a different input shaft compared to the gtst?

I've tried a search but came up empty :blush:

Thanks in advance!

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287226-getrag-input-shaft/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah you need a clutch to suit the getrag input shaft. the 34 GTT or 33 GTST box is not a getrag. the 6 speed GTR box is completely different and input shaft is different size and splines. to top it off the old nismo 34 GTR clutch kit came with a new input shaft for the getrag box as they were a known weak point (twisting I believe) so you may be unlucky and find that the previous owner had a nismo clutch and now you'll need a clutch to match that particular shaft.

hang on, just realised you just want to align the clutch before you fit it up yeah? you actually still have the gearbox to mate up. well some driveline place should have a clutch aligning tool that will fit the getrag type clutch. sorry for the useless rant above! lol. shouldn't be more than $20 or $30 for a getrag type clutch alignment tool.

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the answers guys!

Yeah, kind of what I suspected :blink:

The previous owner told me that when he had the clutch changed by Advan in Sydney they had great trouble in finding one that would fit and the comment from the mechanic was that the gearbox wasn't standard the standard r34 gtr box, which I did find rather hard to believe :blush:

I guess it would make sense that I may have a Nismo input shaft.. Could you be nice enough to link me somewhere that has details on how I could identify the Nismo item compared to the stock?

Cheers :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • S1_C34
      A31 Digital Climate Control

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • MBS206
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • MBS206
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • GTSBoy
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...