Jump to content
SAU Community

Going To Fit A Xr6 Turbo Intercooler

Pal

By Pal,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Pal Veteran

Pal

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

have picked up a standard BF XR6 turbo intercooler from my mate to fit in the front of my skyline. I have a 600*300*75 in there at the moment but have had to cut the reo to fit it in. Due to the Po Po having a bit of a blitz on IMO240 emmission tests over here in WA at the moment im trying to dull down the visuals of my car and have decided to fit the smaller cooler in the front and weld the cut out section of my reo back in to get it back to legal(ish). has anyone tried to fit one and results/pic of piping if possible. My mate run 400rwhp at 14 psi through the cooler so i dont think it will be a problem running 350rwhp at 15 psi through it in my car.

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted

I thought of this idea a while ago n thought it was great as you can use the stockish intercooler pipes slightly modified n paint the cooler black to avoid any attention.

dunno about their efficiency as the xr6 makes power from lower boost and larger capacity, mounting this cooler to ur r33 which needs more air displaced at higher temps might be a bit difficult for it to cool at 350rwhp; either way, try it out n maybe add some WMI later down the line, tune fore safety jst in case of a hot day but since its mounted at the front, doubt it will get heat soak quickly like the side mounter; jst no standing burnouts n u should be cool.

Pal Veteran

Pal

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the way i looked at it is that im not always on the go peddle and i don't do skids. i like my power for a bit of strip work and the ability to have a bit of power when i need it (overtaking).

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted
lol i got a r34 intercooling in my r33 and it does burnouts all day long no overheating at all and thats side mounted

Translation: U have an r34 SMIC in your r33 and 'dont know' how hot the intake temp is; not talking about water temp here. I have a photo of my car from the auction house in japan, cant get any new ones cos my cars been impounded from doing burnouts all day long (30seconds before getting caught)

lolz jst mucking round

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
lol i got a r34 intercooling in my r33 and it does burnouts all day long no overheating at all and thats side mounted

Go and face palm yourself in a mirror.

Water temp gauge has little to no bearing what so ever on inlet temp.

You car could be detonating its tits off due to super high intake temps and water temp gauge will look fine.

R33NZSL33PA Explorer

R33NZSL33PA

Posted
Posted (edited)

is that rite little john nah it pops mean skids and yea the intake temp is hot but hasnt failed yet i only run 6.7 psi for burnouts also which helps a tinny bit for doing burnouts and my car has never been impounded and never will be and that photo is of my car be4 i purchased it . Tardomatic response unit.

and if u like when these proxies get bald ill do u a burnt out and post it and we see how many seconds i get

Edited by R33NZSL33PA
R33NZSL33PA Explorer

R33NZSL33PA

Posted
Posted (edited)

Also have this ting called a brand new oxyengen sensor which as u should know caculates the exhaust temp and from that it calculates the intake temp and ecu sets the right air to f mix depending on boost level mind u which is why im staying with 6.7 psi till i get a better turbo and ecu also sticking with e stand exhaust hollowed out :yes: i beat ur ganna moan about that one all my life heh.

Edited by R33NZSL33PA
NZM.031 Grand Master

NZM.031

Posted
Posted

oh boy.. thats hectic... you should get yourself a red dragon bro.. they is full hectic.

6.7psi... thats pretty hectic boost bro.. and what do you use to measure that? and considering the standard R33 GTSt runs 7psi... how are you lowering it by 0.3psi?? thats way cool..

new oxygen sensor... wowzers.. thats rocking.. shame the water temp sender, afm, and coilpacks are probs still 17 years old.

oxygen sensor senses how much unburnt oxygen is still in the exhaust gas after combustion ..not the temp... the cat temp sensor does that.. but is probs dead. it works on a closed loop circuit and corrects itself constantly. but its by no means an effective way of tuning.. hooking a fully hectic a/f gauge up to the 02 sensor is not an effective way of checking the a/f ratio either.. only way is to put a proper sensor in the exhaust with a proper gauge.

VL commodores do better skids than skylines... go buy one of them.

R33NZSL33PA Explorer

R33NZSL33PA

Posted
Posted (edited)

im guessing my actuator is the reason it only goes to 6.7 psi and that reading was from the dyno lol at heres the af ratio at 3500rpm = 12.2 lol and at 6500rpm af ratio = 11.4 boost hits max at 6.7psi at 4200rpm and holds steady till 6700rpm and 840 nm at 3100 and tails of to 731 nm at 6700rpm and kw curves to 150.1kw to 6700rpm outside airteam 20c air pressure 1011mb

And yea ive onwed vl's there not as nice to drive as a skyline and a skyline in my opion does way better skids but each to there own :yes:

Edited by R33NZSL33PA
NZM.031 Grand Master

NZM.031

Posted
Posted

pretty much... the buggers run that rich at WOT so the o2 sensor is useless.. its mainly to reduce emissions etc. when potting around and idling.. the car must have ALL sensors working properly to run properly... even then they are tuned so rich so idiots cant destroy them... that all changes after 17yrs though and stuff starts to breakdown, and you run it on aussie fuel in aussie conditions.

NZM.031 Grand Master

NZM.031

Posted
Posted
And yea ive onwed vl's there not as nice to drive as a skyline and a skyline in my opion does way better skids but each to there own :yes:

well there you have it... and you missed my point.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Doesn't the ECU ignore the O2 sensor at wide-open-throttle and revert to standard uncorrected maps anyway?

Yep - Exactly right.

So whatever R33NZSL33PA was talking about with O2 sensors and fuel is purely and utterly wrong. Same with AFR's meaning there won't be detonation. :yes:

Doesn't surprise me though, plenty of people with a lot to learn (trying to see the positive to a silly hoon)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...