Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

have picked up a standard BF XR6 turbo intercooler from my mate to fit in the front of my skyline. I have a 600*300*75 in there at the moment but have had to cut the reo to fit it in. Due to the Po Po having a bit of a blitz on IMO240 emmission tests over here in WA at the moment im trying to dull down the visuals of my car and have decided to fit the smaller cooler in the front and weld the cut out section of my reo back in to get it back to legal(ish). has anyone tried to fit one and results/pic of piping if possible. My mate run 400rwhp at 14 psi through the cooler so i dont think it will be a problem running 350rwhp at 15 psi through it in my car.

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I thought of this idea a while ago n thought it was great as you can use the stockish intercooler pipes slightly modified n paint the cooler black to avoid any attention.

dunno about their efficiency as the xr6 makes power from lower boost and larger capacity, mounting this cooler to ur r33 which needs more air displaced at higher temps might be a bit difficult for it to cool at 350rwhp; either way, try it out n maybe add some WMI later down the line, tune fore safety jst in case of a hot day but since its mounted at the front, doubt it will get heat soak quickly like the side mounter; jst no standing burnouts n u should be cool.

the way i looked at it is that im not always on the go peddle and i don't do skids. i like my power for a bit of strip work and the ability to have a bit of power when i need it (overtaking).

lol i got a r34 intercooling in my r33 and it does burnouts all day long no overheating at all and thats side mounted

Translation: U have an r34 SMIC in your r33 and 'dont know' how hot the intake temp is; not talking about water temp here. I have a photo of my car from the auction house in japan, cant get any new ones cos my cars been impounded from doing burnouts all day long (30seconds before getting caught)

lolz jst mucking round

lol i got a r34 intercooling in my r33 and it does burnouts all day long no overheating at all and thats side mounted

Go and face palm yourself in a mirror.

Water temp gauge has little to no bearing what so ever on inlet temp.

You car could be detonating its tits off due to super high intake temps and water temp gauge will look fine.

is that rite little john nah it pops mean skids and yea the intake temp is hot but hasnt failed yet i only run 6.7 psi for burnouts also which helps a tinny bit for doing burnouts and my car has never been impounded and never will be and that photo is of my car be4 i purchased it . Tardomatic response unit.

and if u like when these proxies get bald ill do u a burnt out and post it and we see how many seconds i get

Edited by R33NZSL33PA

Also have this ting called a brand new oxyengen sensor which as u should know caculates the exhaust temp and from that it calculates the intake temp and ecu sets the right air to f mix depending on boost level mind u which is why im staying with 6.7 psi till i get a better turbo and ecu also sticking with e stand exhaust hollowed out :yes: i beat ur ganna moan about that one all my life heh.

Edited by R33NZSL33PA

oh boy.. thats hectic... you should get yourself a red dragon bro.. they is full hectic.

6.7psi... thats pretty hectic boost bro.. and what do you use to measure that? and considering the standard R33 GTSt runs 7psi... how are you lowering it by 0.3psi?? thats way cool..

new oxygen sensor... wowzers.. thats rocking.. shame the water temp sender, afm, and coilpacks are probs still 17 years old.

oxygen sensor senses how much unburnt oxygen is still in the exhaust gas after combustion ..not the temp... the cat temp sensor does that.. but is probs dead. it works on a closed loop circuit and corrects itself constantly. but its by no means an effective way of tuning.. hooking a fully hectic a/f gauge up to the 02 sensor is not an effective way of checking the a/f ratio either.. only way is to put a proper sensor in the exhaust with a proper gauge.

VL commodores do better skids than skylines... go buy one of them.

im guessing my actuator is the reason it only goes to 6.7 psi and that reading was from the dyno lol at heres the af ratio at 3500rpm = 12.2 lol and at 6500rpm af ratio = 11.4 boost hits max at 6.7psi at 4200rpm and holds steady till 6700rpm and 840 nm at 3100 and tails of to 731 nm at 6700rpm and kw curves to 150.1kw to 6700rpm outside airteam 20c air pressure 1011mb

And yea ive onwed vl's there not as nice to drive as a skyline and a skyline in my opion does way better skids but each to there own :yes:

Edited by R33NZSL33PA

pretty much... the buggers run that rich at WOT so the o2 sensor is useless.. its mainly to reduce emissions etc. when potting around and idling.. the car must have ALL sensors working properly to run properly... even then they are tuned so rich so idiots cant destroy them... that all changes after 17yrs though and stuff starts to breakdown, and you run it on aussie fuel in aussie conditions.

And yea ive onwed vl's there not as nice to drive as a skyline and a skyline in my opion does way better skids but each to there own :yes:

well there you have it... and you missed my point.

Doesn't the ECU ignore the O2 sensor at wide-open-throttle and revert to standard uncorrected maps anyway?

Yep - Exactly right.

So whatever R33NZSL33PA was talking about with O2 sensors and fuel is purely and utterly wrong. Same with AFR's meaning there won't be detonation. :yes:

Doesn't surprise me though, plenty of people with a lot to learn (trying to see the positive to a silly hoon)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...