Time For A Rear End Upgrade, What's The Diff?

[darrinspencer]

Hopefully tomorrow I will have secured a complete series 2 Stagea manual cradle.

Should solve my problem.

Just need to buy new rear forked shocks. It is a shame I just put in a set of new bilsteins in 200k's old. I am sure someone will want them

[M I K E]

seems pointless to me? you could run an s14/15 frame and keep your current struts?

[darrinspencer]

seems pointless to me? you could run an s14/15 frame and keep your current struts?

I loose $100 on a pair of struts, but gain bigger drive shafts and mechancial lsd

Not too sure if I will break 5 bolt R33 gtst shafts, but not too keen to find out and have to spend more later buying the right gear

[Raysboostin]

if ur interested i got a pair of stock rs4s rear shocks and springs layin around. u can have cheap if u want em. PM me

[darrinspencer]

if ur interested i got a pair of stock rs4s rear shocks and springs layin around. u can have cheap if u want em. PM me

Thanks, but I have new bilsteins up front as well, plus need to be height adjustable.

Might sell the complete f & r bilsteins, I find them too stiff. Preferred the Teins I had before

[darrinspencer]

I thought I would post an update.

I had 3 reasons to change my rear to a manual/260rs version

1. My rear cradle was a bit rusty. Could have fixed it but could not be bothered

2. To reduce the rear track by 50mm to match the front end so I can run the same offset wheels front to rear

3. Fit the larger diameter 6x1 bolt drive shafts and mechanical lsd to handle the power upgrades.

So I bought a manual rear end out of a wrecked stagea.

When I got around to changing it over, I discovered that my car, originally a series 2 auto, had the bigger drive shafts.

Basically it is the same as the manual rear end, but is 50mm wider in track.

It had the 6x1 bolt half shafts. The tail shaft is also alot heavy than the standard auto version.

I will also have to check the size if the bearings in the rear hubs as I know GTR's have bigger ones than the gtst version

Not sure if the auto diff is mechanical, but could be?

So I assume this rear end was a factory option?

[QWK32]

Have you run your vin through fast before, and checked the options? I know a LSD rear end was an option for the S2 auto's, perhaps this also meant the stronger tail & drive shafts were used to go with it. You may have the LSD option.

[nisrob]

back on topics of rear ends....

s1 stagea auto upgrade rear ends?

complete s14-s15-r33 gts-t cradles all fit ok???

never been convered as a diy or fyi i think...

thanks heaps

[nisrob]

does a r33 gts-t centre into stagea s1 cradle to save whole cradle swap??

cant the axle flanges get swapped out of diff to change between 5x1 3x2 axle patterns?

[fmlycar]

So all I need is cradle and half shafts? Everything else bolts back up as normal? Looking at R34 non Hicas cradle and r33 shafts to suit my diff.

[KiwiRS4T]

Why not go the whole hog and get a GTR diff - at least its a proper LSD and you get stronger axles. Although I guess you could get a Nismo LSD for your existing diff.

[fmlycar]

Haven't got the funds for a diff too at this stage. Plus the freight to the desert is nearly more than the parts

[fmlycar]

R34 non hicas craddle and half shafts bolted straight in and wheel alignment without any issues. S1 c34 converted to manual. Wheels that went in were 18x9.5 +12 with a 235/40/18 tyres. Has the slightest amount of poke on the front and rears and near on flush

[GroceryZilla]

I thought I would post an update.
I had 3 reasons to change my rear to a manual/260rs version
1. My rear cradle was a bit rusty. Could have fixed it but could not be bothered
2. To reduce the rear track by 50mm to match the front end so I can run the same offset wheels front to rear
3. Fit the larger diameter 6x1 bolt drive shafts and mechanical lsd to handle the power upgrades.
So I bought a manual rear end out of a wrecked stagea.
When I got around to changing it over, I discovered that my car, originally a series 2 auto, had the bigger drive shafts.
Basically it is the same as the manual rear end, but is 50mm wider in track.
It had the 6x1 bolt half shafts. The tail shaft is also alot heavy than the standard auto version.
I will also have to check the size if the bearings in the rear hubs as I know GTR's have bigger ones than the gtst version
Not sure if the auto diff is mechanical, but could be?
So I assume this rear end was a factory option?

So I'm looking to change over to a complete 33gtr rear end. Will there be any issues I run into at all?
Getting a new set of coilovers also so I'll be able to just get rears suit 33gtr.

I'm thinking entire rear so I can fit my wheels without doing flares and while only running -2° camber, changes shafts and diff which was my initial plan anyway.
Car is s1, wheels are 19x10.5+18 SSRs


Excuse my primed bonnet [emoji23]

[KiwiRS4T]

I got an R32GTR rear - I think you may need to remount the Attessa unit.

[GroceryZilla]

I got an R32GTR rear - I think you may need to remount the Attessa unit.

The master unit?
How did you go fitting 32gtr rear subframe? Offset spacers or bolt up?

[KiwiRS4T]

8 hours ago, GroceryZilla said:

 

The master unit?
How did you go fitting 32gtr rear subframe? Offset spacers or bolt up?

 

Sorry can't help you with the nitty gritty because I got my local RB guru to do it on a hoist in his workshop. All I know is that the attessa pump etc had to be relocated and I had to chase round for 6 x 1 axles of various lengths (different left and right).