Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okaly Dokily.

Both AFM's totally replaced and the issue still appears to be occurring.

AFM wiring has copped a prod and a poke, even during one of it's hissy fits, and it didn't seem to make any difference.

Anyone else got any ideas, or will this remain 'The Mother Of All Unfixable Problems'? (:whistling:)

Edited by DarkGT-R

have you checked 110% via fault codes that it's no doing it?

Blitz ECU makes it hard, does it even show fault codes?

A PFC you can tell in 2 seconds :)

I'd say CAS next - but ONLY after you check the fault/ecu code somehow

take out your battery, drain the liquid, fill with new de-mineralised water, charge overnight, give it a go.

ask around your area for a consult port (or buy one, Nissan Consult for $50~) plug into car (behind coin box next to fuses near right knee) & laptop and read whats going on with your ecu

after that, dynotune might we a way to find the issue.

one coilpack could be failing?

take out your battery, drain the liquid, fill with new de-mineralised water, charge overnight, give it a go.

ask around your area for a consult port (or buy one, Nissan Consult for $50~) plug into car (behind coin box next to fuses near right knee) & laptop and read whats going on with your ecu

after that, dynotune might we a way to find the issue.

one coilpack could be failing?

So you want to turn a lead/acid battery into a lead/water not battery??!! WTF?

Can you confirm that Blitz ECUs also run the Consult protocol?

take out your battery, drain the liquid, fill with new de-mineralised water, charge overnight, give it a go.

ask around your area for a consult port (or buy one, Nissan Consult for $50~) plug into car (behind coin box next to fuses near right knee) & laptop and read whats going on with your ecu

after that, dynotune might we a way to find the issue.

one coilpack could be failing?

I believe the test with the consult port may have already been done yesterday by the shop working on the car. At one point they hooked up a small rectangular box with various readouts on it to the ECU. Everything appeared fine. No error codes displayed, even when the issue occurred.

you did not mention your BOV.. Ive read others having probs like yours after going aftermarket( leaking at low revs and idle)..at least it would be easy to test

Anything not mentioned will be standard.

My car still has the standard BOV in place.

Would a smoke leak test confirm if the BOV was leaking? If so, then this has been checked.

Edited by DarkGT-R

its obviously something thats been bumped during the airfilter instalation.

im one for a dicky conection to the airflow meters..

simple to see if its the filter, just remove it and see what happens.

try to think what was touched duing the filter install..

its obviously something thats been bumped during the airfilter instalation.

im one for a dicky conection to the airflow meters..

simple to see if its the filter, just remove it and see what happens.

try to think what was touched duing the filter install..

Yeah, wiring and connections may be the next direction to look.

Cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...