Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

the Wife generously came to pick me up from the station last night and when we got ready to head home tadaaaa... nothing....

All lights work, connections checked and cleaned, jump started, disconnected the ECU and re-connected, checked all connections to SAFC, banged the alternator, check fuses in engine bay and inside......

turn the key and accessories light up normally but there is no clicking over..... like there’s no power to the starter or something.... checked that too.

I’m completely stumped....

the car has been driving perfectly for ages and just yesterday my wife drive it on many short distance trips without issues....

this happened once before when I initially installed the SAFC and SITC but then when the ecu was disconnected and reconnected it was fine ....

it sux as its our only car ATM.......

any thoughts or other checks i can do???

thanks in advance

Ian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287337-s1-not-starting-at-all/
Share on other sites

you say you bashed the alternator, did you think to tap the starter motor??

can you hear a 'click' when you turn the key?? if not, its probably the solenoid on the starter. if you can, its more than likely the starter itself........

actually thats a good point! if it WAS automatic, and its now manual (for whatever reason) then the starter inhibitor might be faulty. as in the wire bridging what used to be a switch, is now not working

you say you bashed the alternator, did you think to tap the starter motor??

can you hear a 'click' when you turn the key?? if not, its probably the solenoid on the starter. if you can, its more than likely the starter itself........

Thanks for the reply... probably should have mentioned that i did hit the starter.....Not had :)

there is no click when the key is turned.....

long shot but in knocked off the solinoid wire to my starter motor.. same symtoms as u said... check that, is there any way to test if its getting power easy???

it was all in place but i have to admit i probably could have paid more attention to that... will do so tonight.

i just dont get how it just died after been turned off for less than 10 minutes.....

maybe try using a jumper lead from the positive battery terminal to the positive terminal of the starter, see if it kicks over.......

if you can hear a click, its either a wiring issue, or your starter is shagged. and yes they can just stop working!

maybe try using a jumper lead from the positive battery terminal to the positive terminal of the starter, see if it kicks over.......

Unless you have a quality surge protector fitted, I would not recommend doing this one. I have seen the ECU in a commonwhore go up in smoke trying this jobbie. Not saying it WILL happen, but there is a risk.

Make sure it is not in "D"rive when you turn the key?

Double checked that.

Unless you have a quality surge protector fitted, I would not recommend doing this one. I have seen the ECU in a commonwhore go up in smoke trying this jobbie. Not saying it WILL happen, but there is a risk.

i had though about it but wasnt game enough

Damn: the flux capacitor requires 1.21GW of power to function... just get some plutonium...

...Or fit a Mr. Fusion

LOL

well i got it started....

didnt do anything really.... jiggled the loom at ecu and gave the starter another tap....

drove it and got back home switched the car off turned it back on and let it run for a bit and then off again....

then suprise it wouldnt start again..... did exactly what i did before (loom and starter) nothing

F*$K

My R31 did something very similar.

Would start when cold, but would not when warm (just after a drive or in the warmer months).

I used to get it started by shorting out the starter motor with a long screwdriver.

Worked every time.

My old R31 used to do this randomly, (had the hitachi starter not the bosch) turned out when I stripped the starter, one brush (out of four) was worn more than the others, and would occasionally juuust not be in contact with the comm.

Would start perfectly 50 times, then not, start perfectly for ages then not. Was a major pain, couldn't let my g/f drive it cos it might strand her. Four new brushes (I just took the brush holder to an auto elec, as the leads are soldered in place, didn't have a big enough soldering iron) $45 later, problem solved.

Chased this issue for at least 4 months, was ready to burn it... Good luck.

Well i have been doing the screwdriver thing all weekend..... so its definately starter solenoid.

Some random dude helped out the wife on friday and say it was "the starter solenoid valve".

Same boat

so anyone had to relpace a solenoid before??? same as R33 i would assume??

hard to get at your local supercrap or repco??

Apologies for the questions above… was a bit lazy should have assumed the starter was the same across the RB series.

Well yesterday I though id attack the starter and try to fix the solenoid…. One of the most traumatic experiences ever….

Man it’s a pain to even get the starter off….

Anyway I got the solenoid off and have all contact points a clean and re-soldered it…. Took about 2.5 hours to get it back on but it works now…..

Haven’t had an issue yet …… let’s hope it stays that way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...