Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Motor have run their annual tyre test, this year the results seem to be more relevant to us....they tested 18' performance tyres ;)

Tests were dry stopping, wet stopping and wet and dry lap times of a track at DECA.

Results:

DL - Dry Lap

DS - Dry Stop 100-0km/h

WL - Wet Lap

WS - Wet Stop 80-0km/h

Goodyear Eagle F1 WL 16.54s, WS 38.1m, DL 45.32s, DS 39.6m, Avg Price $462

Bridgestone Potenza Re040 WL 16.92s, WS 41.3m, DL 44.79s, DS 44.5m, Avg Price $413

Dunlop SP Sport 9000 WL 16.83s, WS 37.8m, DL 46.49, DS 46.1m, Avg Price $485

Pirelli P Zero Nero WL 17.02s, WS 34.7m, DL 46.09s, DS 42.7m, Avg Price $491

Falken GRB FK451 WL 17.21s, WS 32.4m, DL 45.36, DS 37.7m, Avg Price $383

Toyo Proxes T1-S WL 17.13s, WS 44m, DL 45.53s, DS 40.3m, Avg Price $411

Hankook Ventus Sport K104 WL 17.23s, WS 34.5m, DL 45.16s, DS 39.6m, Avg Price $333

Michelin Pilot Sport WL 17.32s, WS 38.8m, DL 44.83s, DS 43.2s, Avg Price $589

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28744-which-tyres-motor-magazine-test/
Share on other sites

And which tire did they award the winner?

They didn't have a "winner" as such, but interestingly the second cheapest tyre, falken fk451, was best in both wet and dry braking tests.

The guys at motor seem to say you cant go past the Hankooks, which is a good thing since they are the cheapest tyre there.

That was how i read it. Being a tight ass and all :cheers:

Even though the website says they have a shitload of sizes in the k104 they only seem to have 18s and some 17s atm though.

Melb (dunno about other states) has a Goodyear tyre deal - buy 4 for the price of 3...

Picked up a set of Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3 - $245/each x 3 + $40 4w align = $775.

These German made GSD3s are substantially better than the Thailand made GSD2 - with improvements made in all aspects of the tyre too!

Otherwise I probably would have settled for the cheaper Kuhmo 712s @ 190each but then would have to buy 4...

In Jan 2003 motor mag ran their annual tyre test on the top 13 performance tyres

1) Dunlop Formla FM901 cost $1150

2) Pirelli P Zero Nero cost $1320

3) Bridgestone Potenza S-03 cost $1180

4) Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 cost $1516

5) Firestone SZ50 cost $884

6) Hankook Ventus K104 $688

7) Michelin Pilot Preceha $1350

8) BF Goodrich Profiler G $1140

9) Avon ZZ3 $940

10) Toyo Trampio GU:WN $892

11) Simex SM9300 $700

12) Kumho ECSTA Supra712 $780

13) Federal 589 $632

Fooey that list above is from the last test of which the Michelin Preceda's won. I have been using them for around 6mths and they are fantastic.

I guess i'll have to take a read of the latest Motor Mag during my lunch break on Monday to read over this latest set of tests.

Just got a set of Michelin Pilot sports on the car today;

235/40/18

265/35/18

still scrubbing them in, but they seem excellent under braking. they squeal a bit, but i think that is just the silicon coat of the new tyre wearing off

Don't know about the tests in the first post, as far as I can see they all lapped more than twice as fast in the wet as they did in the dry and they all stopped quicker in the wet than the dry, seems just a little odd???

The thing I find funny I've tried top line tyres and cheaper (use more for bunrouts ) lower range tyres and find the Falkens and slighlty cheaper ones to be crap in the wet. Mind you I have to say, rear tyres don't last but my question why 80-0km/h in the wet test and not a 100-0km/h test. ?

Don't know about the tests in the first post,  as far as I can see they all lapped more than twice as fast in the wet as they did in the dry and they all stopped quicker in the wet than the dry, seems just a little odd???

Me thinks the collumns got shifted in the translation. I had Bridgestone Potenzas on my SSS which I liked. Choice magazine did a test that included them and hey actually had the same stopping distance in the wet and the dry and in the dry they were I think 2nd best.

haha, I think I got the columns the right way around? The wet and dry tracks were different, wet was much shorter from memory. And the dry braking test was from 100, the wet from 80 :D

  • 2 weeks later...

My last set of tyres were the Yokihama 539's. I thought they were great, really progressive at and beyond the limit of traction without any nasty characteristics. I also measured 1g cornering with an accelerometer around the big round about at the end of Centenary highway and Ipswich Rd.

I've now upped the anti with a set of Bridgestone R compound RE540S, now they have grip. Reduced my lap times by over 2secs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...