Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am having no luck selling my stagea so i am considering selling the built motor seperatley and going back to stock to sell the car easier.

Motor spec's:

11,000km's and 13 months old mostly highway kays (100km round trip to work), never been raced etc, never gone over 9psi.

Built by Gavin Wood Autotech on the gold coast

Arias pistons

Eagle rods

Trust Metal head gasket

Trust 264deg easy street cams

Tomie sump baffel

Tomie oil restrictor

ACL race series bearings

All new gaskets

All new timing gear

New garret 2860-7's

Head fully recon'd and lifters set for the cams

Fully balanced

Block and crank crack tested

Block acid dipped, decked etc

Crank linished

N1 oil pump

New water pump

Apexi power FC with hand controller, newer version AFM type

Engine did 304awhp @ 9psi at xspeed who did the tune

I have receipts for over $8000 in parts and machining alone not including any labour building it.

Im chasing $10,500 ono which i think is fair considering the work done.

Or $7000 with a stock R33 GTR motor as a trade i can then put into my stagea.

I am selling the motor to fund some work on my R34, i may consider other parts with the trade (man conv, R34 GTR rims, coilovers etc)

The motor is still in the car, i will not pull it out until i have a deposit as i still need the car. Inspections welcome.

I am in Bunbury WA

0419943997

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287530-built-rb26/
Share on other sites

Deposit taken.

Interested in just the motor if its for sale

dont want the turbo or any of the other stuff just the motor.Will do trade for a 33 gtr motor currently running in my 33 gtr motor is a 50k and clean no smoked good comp stocker.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287530-built-rb26/#findComment-4832553
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...