Racepace Built R34 Gtr Nur Rb28 V-cam
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Bah. That bit there can't be more than 0.5mm thick, and only about 6mm wide. That's only 3mm2 XS area**, which is a lot smaller than any other part of that circuit. (Although, granted, the wire inside the tank on that blue ring crimp looks a lot smaller than the wire outside!). The equivalent neck on the blue crimp has to be even smaller. **And yeah, I realise that 3mm2 should be able to carry ~30A. But something has to be the weak link here, and that is the narrowest part of the whole thing. So, unless the crimps are bad and causing high voltage drop, the next most likely suspect has to be the necks. The face area of the ring onto the passthrough's landing would have to be multiples of the neck's XS area. So long as they started out tight they (the ring contact face) never should have been the source of the heat. Same with the suspicion of the possible nyloc. If it started out tight, it shouldn't have ever gotten hot enough to melt the nylon, loosen and then cause the heat that melted the nylon. The circular argument has to start elsewhere. If it were me, I'd be thinking about some other sort of passthrough that doesn't require the nuts and ring terminals for conductivity. If there were passthroughs that had direct crimps on both sides, they'd be single use, but they would have metal to metal interfaces only at the crimps. Would be solid metal between the crimps. -
By TurboTapin · Posted
Those yellow ring terminals are usually UL rated to 48-50A, and the blue ones to 30A. 105C. I doubt that's your issue. What's oozing out of the top of that nut? Is that a nylon lock nut? Does your bulkhead fitting have enough landing for your ring terminal to make good contact on both sides? Bad contact = Heat. Also check your crimps. Once crimped, confirm it's done properly by trying to pull the wire and ring apart. It should not budge. -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
I usually rip off the insulation off those terminals and crimp them down without it (to get a better crimp) then heat shrink over the top. Man, just PWM your fuel pump and enjoy life lol. -
I'd try the Jaycar one first. Don't even bother with replacing the passthroughs, as they will still work provided the melting is only minor and they still seal and insulate. You can always go back and replace those later. After you've put the new crimps on, you just have to make the pump work for a bit, then go back there and laser gun the terminals (or touch if you're brave enough) to see if they are sufficiently cool to relieve your concern. You might want to gather a data point with the old setup first, to see how hot they get now.
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By Murray_Calavera · Posted
This might be another option too if the surgery allows for a straight lug to be used. Jaycar rates them at 30 amps - https://www.jaycar.com.au/6mm-non-insulated-eye-terminal-4mm2-pack-of-8/p/PT4932
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