Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25det To Rb Non-turbo?

Dorigecko

By Dorigecko,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dorigecko Proficient

Dorigecko

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I'm wanting to rebuild my RB25DET, but seeing as how a) it'll take some time and b) it's a daily driver.

What needs to be changed over in a conversion like that? I've got a standard computer and loom, RB20 gearbox, and a 3" exhaust *gulp* and am wanting to go a bog-stock RB30. I've had a soft-spot for NA for a while.. so yeah.

Any help would be awesome, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287736-rb25det-to-rb-non-turbo/
Share on other sites
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

You're rebuilding your current engine as in strapping on a RB30 block? Or you want to go either RB25DE or RB30DE? There was/still are a few listings on ebay for a RB25DE reconditioned block, RB25DE 10:1 CR Pistons, the crank and I think a few other bits.

Dorigecko Proficient

Dorigecko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No no. I'm not doing anything flash, just wanting to bust in an engine I can destroy and do it fairly simply, while building my RB25DET to factory standards (yes, that's right. no forged internals)

The idea is to drop in an RB30E or RB25DE while retaining the RB25 loom and all that, so it's a simple conversion back to the 25. but in the mean time, i'm wondering exactly what needs to be changed to run the RB30E.

I gather that i'll need to run the RB30 computer, but is there any similarity that I can utilize between the 25 and 30 which would allow me to retain the 25 loom?

elsewise, it shall be a bigger job than anticipated.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

i would be checking on the legal side of things of just putting in a stock rb30e. i don't know if you will be able to do it because you are fitting an older motor to a newer car.

it may be easier to just buy a second hand turbo motor and dropping that in while you do the rebuild. should be able to pick one up reasonably cheaply since you don't need to buy the gearbox, loom (if you get the same series as your current motor), etc. or if your current engine is still going but you just wanted to rebuild it, leave it in there and rebuild the motor you buy. saves the hassle of changing motors twice

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted
I gather that i'll need to run the RB30 computer, but is there any similarity that I can utilize between the 25 and 30 which would allow me to retain the 25 loom?

nup, completely different.

You best bet is RB25DE, which as its only temporary, will run fine even n/a with turbo gear (ecu/loom/sensors/injectors etc) or if you get one with injectors etc, using the N/A ecu on the det loom will be fine, the car will drive perfectly.

Dorigecko Proficient

Dorigecko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

pretty sure that's a retarded response. no offense, but check location next time.

thinking i'll wait for another 25det to show itself to me. either build that one or bung it in. problem solvered. thanks dudes.

PandaR33 Enthusiast

PandaR33

Posted
Posted
pretty sure that's a retarded response. no offense, but check location next time.

thinking i'll wait for another 25det to show itself to me. either build that one or bung it in. problem solvered. thanks dudes.

you dont have a location set mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...