Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

p.s I dont like getting into the kick pannel were the ecu is as I belive the more one root's arround with it the more likely some of those fine wires will break in the socket.

The less you remove the ecu the better.

Note it would be quite costly to replace the scoket that plugs to the ecu. It could also cause faults that are hard to trace.

Thats why I think its better to reset the ecu the paper clip way.

my 2 cents

DAMQIK

just tried the paper clip method. it worked!! realised i was putting it in the wrong holes wen DAMQIK said that the points had wires going into them. i was putting the clip into 2 empty ones hehe.

the engine check lite flashed 5 times slow, and then 5 times quick? and then just kept repeating itself after that. anyone know what that means?

  • 2 years later...

I know this is digging up an old thread, but I thought the paper clip trick only reset the diagnostics (this needs to be done after replacing a faulty componant) mode not the actual ECU (learning). Droppng power to it and draining off any power by pressing the brake or leaving over night is the only way I know..

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys, the diagnostic tool you need isnt expensive! and you can share it with any mates that have a pre 97 Nissan with the grey consult diagnostic port. If you have a laptop ,USB ECU Interface cable and software can cost as little as $155.

If you are interested, check out my ad in the 'for sale from our sponsors' .

Im quite happy for you to borrow mine too if you are Sydney based.

Cheers,

Caz... :D

  GTR-80Y said:
I really don't think it would have done too much.....the proper diagnostic tool is needed and after the reset there are certain driving processes it needs to help the computer 'learn'.

CODE 13 is Engine coolant temp sensor, very common fault. Remove and clean the connector with a tiny file and contact cleaner, retension the insides so they connect well, clear the fault from your ecu , replug and try again!

ECU SELF-DIAGNOSTIC ERRORCODES

Code 11* :

Camshaft Angle Sensor circuit (CAS)

Either 1° or 120° signal is not entered for the first few seconds of engine cranking,

Either 1° or 120° signal is not input often enough while the engine speed is higher then the specified RPM.

Check harness and connector (if harness and connector are OK, replace CAS)

Code 12 :

Air Flow Meter circuit (AFM)

The AFM sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector (if harness and connector are OK, replace AFM)

Code 13 :

Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor

The Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormal voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector of Engine Coolant Temperature sensor

Code 14 :

Speed Sensor circuit

The Speed Sensor circuit is open or shorted.

Check harness and connector speed sensor switch (reed switch)

Code 21*

Ignition signal circuit

The ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running.

Check harness and connector of the Power Transistor Unit

Code 26

Boost Pressure sensor (Turbo models)

The boost pressure sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check for boost pressure leaks, check boost pressure sensor

Code 31

Control Unit

ECU calculation function is failing Replace ECU

Code 32

EGR function

EGR valve does not operate (valve spring does not lift)

Check EGR valve and EGR-solenoid

Code 33

O2 Sensor (left side)

The O2 Sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, O2 sensor, Fuel pressure, Injectors, Intake air leaks

Code 34

Detonation Sensor circuit

The detonation sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check Harness and connector, detonation sensor

Code 35

EGR Temp. Sensor

The EGR Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check EGR temp. sensor

Code 42

Fuel Temp Sensor circuit

The Fuel Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check Fuel temp. sensor

Code 43

Throttle Position Sensor circuit

The Throttle Position Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check throttle position sensor

Code 45

Injector leak

Fuel leaks from the injectors Injectors

Code 51

Injector circuit

The injector circuit is open

Check harness and connector, check injectors

Code 53

O2 Sensor (right side)

The O2 Sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, O2 sensor, fuel pressure, injectors, intake air leaks

Code 54

Signal circuit from the automatic transmission (A/T) (A/T models only)

The A/T communication line is open or shorted

Check harness and connector

Hope this helps,

Cheers, Caz... :D

  bilbo117 said:
can someone please post what all the codes are? i cant find it, and me mates has just started flashing code 13.

  • 7 months later...

absurdely old topic and all but, the above list of problems do you need the ecu diagnostic tester to assess? or is there like a LCD screen in the ecu that gives u codes or a LED

thx itd save me asking alot of questions if i could get these codes goin. That and i dont like pulling kick panels apart and going near old wiring if i dont have to

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...

i know this may seems as a bit of a noob qs but is there any harzards involved with resetting the ecu???

i recently had a faulty afm which i fixed by resoldering the three pins inside on the circuit board, i was getting stalling and hesistation problems all the time and the car chewwed fuel like no tommorow, but the car still seems to run a little rough around the 3 - 3500 rpm mark hesistating and there is a significant power drop, i was wondering whether resetting the ecu wud help it to re learn the correct air/fuel ratios now that the afm is fixed if this has anything to do with the problem???

please feel free to correct me if i am wrong as im new to this game

Cheers Nick :O

Resetting the ECU lets the computer retune to suit the fuel mixtures your running (depends on fuel & quality/location etc.). Your ECU will do this/reset itself automatically after 50 starts or so anyway...

Occasional backfire could be from a number of things, TPS, atmo BOVS, coolers etc. but firstly look at the timing/tune. Crap fuel shouldnt cause a backfire just a more spontaneous combustion rather than top/down??

The only benefit you'll get from resetting the ecu (apart from resetting other computers) is that the fuel mixtures are more aggressively tuned (i.e. first tune to suit first run), and that benefit will only be realised if you keep using the same blend of fuel i.e. BP Ultimate, Shell Optimax etc. all the time. Ive been told that this occurs dynamically (real time) aswell but it is far less aggressive i.e. tune happens over weeks rather than minutes

Just keep using the same fuel and your ecu will reset itself automatically at some stage. Not sure about the diagram above but the R32 and 33 pinouts are different. Just unplug battery +ve and hit the brake pedal to remove residual - this will also work with most other cars.

An automatic shop tried to charge me 150$ to reset the Auto ECU in a magna doing the same thing, Nissan charge $70 for an ECU reset also, 120$ for a reset & a consult - ridiculous!!

  • 2 years later...

Hey

sorry to start this topic again. I'm about to do a 100,000km service and I would like to reset mystock ecu but I'm not sure what to do as I have a rb20det? Disconecting the battery really work? Can sum1 please explain how reset the ecu on r32?

Cheers

thanks for bumping a 3+ year old thread

to do stock ecu reset undo the battery terminal and press the brake pedal a few times

it will clear out all the power in the system and reset the stock ecu

it will also reset the headunit and other non-nvram based electronics

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ...just a note of warning, you shouldn't drive it about with the TCU in limp mode with only 3rd gear available ~ apart from the fact you end up sheering the ATF at the torque converter interface, the high clutch in these isn't especially the strongest, particularly bolted to the RB25DE mill...which is likely a 4AX01 box with lighter duty high clutch (the RB25DET got the bigger high clutch)...be careful out there...
    • Hoping to do similar mods to my RB20 once I get it running and reliable again
    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
×
×
  • Create New...