Resestting ECU

[DAMQIK GTS-T]

p.s I dont like getting into the kick pannel were the ecu is as I belive the more one root's arround with it the more likely some of those fine wires will break in the socket.

The less you remove the ecu the better.

Note it would be quite costly to replace the scoket that plugs to the ecu. It could also cause faults that are hard to trace.

Thats why I think its better to reset the ecu the paper clip way.

my 2 cents

DAMQIK

[_turtle_]

thanks for the pics and directions DAMQIK. i think i'm gonna stick with the paper clip method too. i don't wanna take out the kick panel and stuff. now i'm gonna go out and try this paper clip method again. fingers crossed.

[_turtle_]

just tried the paper clip method. it worked!! realised i was putting it in the wrong holes wen DAMQIK said that the points had wires going into them. i was putting the clip into 2 empty ones hehe.

the engine check lite flashed 5 times slow, and then 5 times quick? and then just kept repeating itself after that. anyone know what that means?

[AndyMac]

It means that as far as your cars computer is concerned everything is running normal as per the signals its receiving.

The 55 is good.

[R31Heaven]

I know this is digging up an old thread, but I thought the paper clip trick only reset the diagnostics (this needs to be done after replacing a faulty componant) mode not the actual ECU (learning). Droppng power to it and draining off any power by pressing the brake or leaving over night is the only way I know..

[lingeringsoul]

sorry but this is a silly Q but what exactly does resetting the ECU do to the car?

[bilbo117]

can someone please post what all the codes are? i cant find it, and me mates has just started flashing code 13.

[caz]

Hey guys, the diagnostic tool you need isnt expensive! and you can share it with any mates that have a pre 97 Nissan with the grey consult diagnostic port. If you have a laptop ,USB ECU Interface cable and software can cost as little as $155.

If you are interested, check out my ad in the 'for sale from our sponsors' .

Im quite happy for you to borrow mine too if you are Sydney based.

Cheers,

Caz...

I really don't think it would have done too much.....the proper diagnostic tool is needed and after the reset there are certain driving processes it needs to help the computer 'learn'.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[caz]

CODE 13 is Engine coolant temp sensor, very common fault. Remove and clean the connector with a tiny file and contact cleaner, retension the insides so they connect well, clear the fault from your ecu , replug and try again!

ECU SELF-DIAGNOSTIC ERRORCODES

Code 11* :

Camshaft Angle Sensor circuit (CAS)

Either 1° or 120° signal is not entered for the first few seconds of engine cranking,

Either 1° or 120° signal is not input often enough while the engine speed is higher then the specified RPM.

Check harness and connector (if harness and connector are OK, replace CAS)

Code 12 :

Air Flow Meter circuit (AFM)

The AFM sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector (if harness and connector are OK, replace AFM)

Code 13 :

Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor

The Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormal voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector of Engine Coolant Temperature sensor

Code 14 :

Speed Sensor circuit

The Speed Sensor circuit is open or shorted.

Check harness and connector speed sensor switch (reed switch)

Code 21*

Ignition signal circuit

The ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running.

Check harness and connector of the Power Transistor Unit

Code 26

Boost Pressure sensor (Turbo models)

The boost pressure sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check for boost pressure leaks, check boost pressure sensor

Code 31

Control Unit

ECU calculation function is failing Replace ECU

Code 32

EGR function

EGR valve does not operate (valve spring does not lift)

Check EGR valve and EGR-solenoid

Code 33

O2 Sensor (left side)

The O2 Sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, O2 sensor, Fuel pressure, Injectors, Intake air leaks

Code 34

Detonation Sensor circuit

The detonation sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check Harness and connector, detonation sensor

Code 35

EGR Temp. Sensor

The EGR Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check EGR temp. sensor

Code 42

Fuel Temp Sensor circuit

The Fuel Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check Fuel temp. sensor

Code 43

Throttle Position Sensor circuit

The Throttle Position Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check throttle position sensor

Code 45

Injector leak

Fuel leaks from the injectors Injectors

Code 51

Injector circuit

The injector circuit is open

Check harness and connector, check injectors

Code 53

O2 Sensor (right side)

The O2 Sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, O2 sensor, fuel pressure, injectors, intake air leaks

Code 54

Signal circuit from the automatic transmission (A/T) (A/T models only)

The A/T communication line is open or shorted

Check harness and connector

Hope this helps,

Cheers, Caz...

can someone please post what all the codes are? i cant find it, and me mates has just started flashing code 13.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[GTAAAH]

absurdely old topic and all but, the above list of problems do you need the ecu diagnostic tester to assess? or is there like a LCD screen in the ecu that gives u codes or a LED

thx itd save me asking alot of questions if i could get these codes goin. That and i dont like pulling kick panels apart and going near old wiring if i dont have to

Edited June 9, 2006 by r32 gts-turbo

[diamondjo]

Noticed that all the pics that explain where the little grey plug is have disappeared.

I've tried it, worked for me. Mine rough idled for a bit before smoothing out again after a few seconds - think this is the computer adjusting the timing.

Here you go:

[Nick033]

i know this may seems as a bit of a noob qs but is there any harzards involved with resetting the ecu???

i recently had a faulty afm which i fixed by resoldering the three pins inside on the circuit board, i was getting stalling and hesistation problems all the time and the car chewwed fuel like no tommorow, but the car still seems to run a little rough around the 3 - 3500 rpm mark hesistating and there is a significant power drop, i was wondering whether resetting the ecu wud help it to re learn the correct air/fuel ratios now that the afm is fixed if this has anything to do with the problem???

please feel free to correct me if i am wrong as im new to this game

Cheers Nick

[Nick033]

anyone?

[Basti]

the ecu reset does no harm to your car. im not sure if it benefits but for my car, it did seem to run a bit smoother on the same type of fuel than it did without the reset. its such a simple procedure why not do it

[Japtastic-UK]

Official Nissan document

[Jmaac]

Resetting the ECU lets the computer retune to suit the fuel mixtures your running (depends on fuel & quality/location etc.). Your ECU will do this/reset itself automatically after 50 starts or so anyway...

[blitza]

I have the nasty RB25 flat spot on my R34 GTT..... Could resetting the ECU fix the problem? I also get an occasional backfire.

If resetting the ECU could help, is it the same as resetting an R33?

Cheers

[Jmaac]

Occasional backfire could be from a number of things, TPS, atmo BOVS, coolers etc. but firstly look at the timing/tune. Crap fuel shouldnt cause a backfire just a more spontaneous combustion rather than top/down??

The only benefit you'll get from resetting the ecu (apart from resetting other computers) is that the fuel mixtures are more aggressively tuned (i.e. first tune to suit first run), and that benefit will only be realised if you keep using the same blend of fuel i.e. BP Ultimate, Shell Optimax etc. all the time. Ive been told that this occurs dynamically (real time) aswell but it is far less aggressive i.e. tune happens over weeks rather than minutes

Just keep using the same fuel and your ecu will reset itself automatically at some stage. Not sure about the diagram above but the R32 and 33 pinouts are different. Just unplug battery +ve and hit the brake pedal to remove residual - this will also work with most other cars.

An automatic shop tried to charge me 150$ to reset the Auto ECU in a magna doing the same thing, Nissan charge $70 for an ECU reset also, 120$ for a reset & a consult - ridiculous!!

[r32man09]

Hey

sorry to start this topic again. I'm about to do a 100,000km service and I would like to reset mystock ecu but I'm not sure what to do as I have a rb20det? Disconecting the battery really work? Can sum1 please explain how reset the ecu on r32?

Cheers

[paulr33]

thanks for bumping a 3+ year old thread

to do stock ecu reset undo the battery terminal and press the brake pedal a few times

it will clear out all the power in the system and reset the stock ecu

it will also reset the headunit and other non-nvram based electronics