Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale is my r32, been my project over the last 3 years. just need something new and different, otherwise no real reason to sell it. comes with everything you see. may be able to organise a roadworthy.

Has been by daily over that time getting me to uni, work, and all around reliably, never skipped a beat!

PRICE: $11,000 FIRM

IMG_0853.jpg

Engine -- 210rw kw @ 380nm of torque

___________________________________________________________

KKR 480 Turbo

Custom 3" Turbo back exhaust with twin pipes

GTR Fuel Pump

GTR Injectors

Z32 AFM

JJR coilpacks

Remap ecu (Status)

FMIC w/ 2.5" heat wrapped piping

Super Heavy Duty Clutch

Turbotech bleed valve

Blitz Sus Pod w/ Silicon Intake Pipe

GREX Oil Cooler + Relocation Kit

ASI 52mm twin core radiator

___________________________________________________________

Interior

___________________________________________________________

RECARO bucket seats w/ recaro rails

Blitz Boost Gauge (in Bar)

Autometer Oil Pressure / Oil Temp Gauges

Nismo Style gear knob

Nismo Short Shifter

PIVOT auto Turbo Timer

Pioneer head deck

Clarion 6" splits front

Kenwood 6" speakers rear

___________________________________________________________

Brakes / Suspension / Wheels / Body work

___________________________________________________________

RDA slotted front rotors

DBA slotted rear rotors

Bendix Advanced CT brake pad FRONT/REAR

Tie Rod End Spacers

4 point half cage

TEIN Front Coilovers

JIC Magic Rear Coilovers

Cusco front camber arms

JIC Magic rear adj camber arms

Front and Rear Cusco Strut bar

GTR sway bars front and rear

HICAS lock Bar

Shimmed diff

Work Eurolines

17x8+5 front with 215/40 federal 595ss tyres -- BRAND NEW tyres

17x9+20 rear with 235/40 federal 595ss tyres -- 80% tread

Ganador mirrors

___________________________________________________________

IMG_0846.jpg

IMG_0839.jpg

IMG_0842.jpg

IMG_0844.jpg

IMG_0845.jpg

IMG_0848.jpg

IMG_0849.jpg

Edited by zero'sR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288183-1992-r32-skyline-11k-melbourne/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...