Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

I fitted http://www.gktech.com.au/products/?id=160 recently. When doing a "u-turn", on full lock the wheel has clearance issues, and the wheel "binds"(gets stuck on full lock, have to wrench it back, which with no power steering, isn't fun), Now, to correct this, I could get Nigels Rack Spacers, Knuckles, new rims etc, spend around 2.5k, and potentially make the car shit in the hills and for anything grip orientated, So I am guessing I should just remove the tie rod spacers, and possibly fit the rack spacers but NOT knuckles.

Who else has fitted tie rod spacers, and who has thought about fitting them, but did not know of the potential issues you can run into?

-Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288267-tie-rod-spacers/
Share on other sites

Not sure why knuckles and that would make it shit for hills or grip orientated stuff? Once you adjust to the steering input needed it shouldn't be different except that you now have super-human parking skills :D

If you want to go back to stock lock take the tie rod spacers out. If you want the lock you have now leave the tie rod spacers in and get a set of Nigels rack spacers (around $290).

There is no point in running the rack spacers if your not running the tie rod spacers. As for the clearance issue, if it isn't much, just run a slimmer tyre or slip on spacer.

If you are having troubles with the tie rod spacers and havn't really drifted much then I wouldn't be bothering with knuckles. Go out there and have fun and upgrade in the future if you find yourself reaching the capabilities of your lock.

Edit- Why no PS steering??? 32 yeah?

Edited by gunmetalgrey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288267-tie-rod-spacers/#findComment-4830264
Share on other sites

Not sure why knuckles and that would make it shit for hills or grip orientated stuff? Once you adjust to the steering input needed it shouldn't be different except that you now have super-human parking skills :thumbsup:The change of Akcermann angle would be seen as an issue for high speed track work from what I read

If you want to go back to stock lock take the tie rod spacers out. If you want the lock you have now leave the tie rod spacers in and get a set of Nigels rack spacers (around $290).

There is no point in running the rack spacers if your not running the tie rod spacers. As for the clearance issue, if it isn't much, just run a slimmer tyre or slip on spacer.

If you are having troubles with the tie rod spacers and havn't really drifted much then I wouldn't be bothering with knuckles. Go out there and have fun and upgrade in the future if you find yourself reaching the capabilities of your lock. Considerng I am a noob that is what I am thinking, or just get rackspacers for now

Edit- Why no PS steering??? 32 yeah? bought it like this, feels good, leaving it out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288267-tie-rod-spacers/#findComment-4830816
Share on other sites

no power steering is your problem. why on earth was it removed? it will make things harder not easier on the circuit as well as on the street. look at even top level circuit GTRs and GTSTs they almost all retain power steering. I cannot think of one successful drift or circuit GTR or GTST off the top of my head that has removed their power steering.... recently when we were doing tyre testing with the hi-octane/RGM/Advan R34 time attack GTR we had power steering issues. after 1 hot lap it was boiling the PS fluid we think due to the reservoir tank design and without power steering the car was practically undrivable and mark, the driver, can drive the wheels off just about anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288267-tie-rod-spacers/#findComment-4831330
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
×
×
  • Create New...