Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

doing my t belt and just pulled off seal for cams and crankshaft. just want to confirm if i have either the old or new style crankshaft, can barely see the oil drive(flats which engage the oil gear) the flats DO NOT extend beyond the oil gear, they are below the surface of the gear approx 3mm or 1/8 of an inch. however i have determined the width of the portion which contacts the seal is about 12 mm wide. i am not talking about the flats but the part of the crank which rides against the seal. obviosuly the smaller the width of the portion that rides on the seal the better because it yields a wider width for the flats which contact the oil gear. so my question is on the attached url there is a a diagram of the new and old style cranks shafts. distance "a" is representing the new and "b" is the old one.

i am hoping i have "a" crankshaft so can anyone pls kindly confirm that the dimension of width is is about 12mm or 13mm?????crank pics

Profile mentions 94 BNR32, so you should have the R33 crank. The flat part on R33 (ie. where the pump is driven by) should be twice the width of the early R32 crank..

Late 32/33 (good) vs. Early 32 (bad)

post-51527-1253176622_thumb.jpgpost-51527-1253176639_thumb.jpg

hey thanks for the reply however i believe my manufacturing date is in 93 so im not sure if i made it for the cut off

and who knows if the engine has been swaped or not but just saying u have to exprect the worst

but can anyone provide me with an exact measurement? ie give me the width of "a" or "b" which is in url of the first post???????????????

how wide is the part of the crank which rides on the seal? not the flats of the oil drive

Profile mentions 94 BNR32, so you should have the R33 crank. The flat part on R33 (ie. where the pump is driven by) should be twice the width of the early R32 crank..

Late 32/33 (good) vs. Early 32 (bad)

post-51527-1253176622_thumb.jpgpost-51527-1253176639_thumb.jpg

Edited by ck_chino

can't really tell until you have the oil pump off. once you do those pics will make it immediately clear. unfortunately you have to pull the sump off and crank out to find out

I am in exactly the same boat. I removed the front crank oil seal and thought I would be able to see the type of crank my car had. Just like you it told me very little even when sticking my head in there and taking photos. However I found from looking at the photos by sticking a small jewelers screwdriver into where the seal use to be you can see how deep the screwdriver goes before it hits the second lip of the crank. From the photos you can see that the older style crank would go deeper than the newer type.

I put the screwdriver in, marked how deep it went and measured it against the stroker crank I have. I found them to be the same. Thus I have the newer style.

Screwdriver should only go in about 12mm if it is the newer crank. If it substantially more than 12mm it is most likely the older style crank. Hope the photos attached help explain. I don't have access to an older style crank so I can't give any exact measurements however at a guess it would be 20mm+.

post-50114-1253655327_thumb.jpg

post-50114-1253655345_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...