Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Ive got my car booked in to the workshop to try sort out why my car pings and basically their first solution is to put a custom oil catch can on there to stop possible blow by. Just before i go down that avenue of spending dosh on something that may or may not fix my issue i would like some feedback from the gurus. Basically the issue is the car will NOT knock over ~17 on dyno/road driven to red line. However everynow and then it will get one ping rangeing from 60-90. It always gets only one ping and my tuner said he could hear it through the ear phones. The thing is even when he took 2 degrees of timing now running 340rwhp it didnt make a difference. It still get inconsistent ping.

Brief list of mods

pfc

gt3076 iw 0.82

zaust - split dump, de cat

eboost 2 running 19psi

pod

fmic

bosch 044

z32 afm

And yes i only put in bp 98 octane. Ive attached a dyno so you can see air fuel ratio

Its a late friday arvo so if i forgotten crucial info let me know. :cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288535-inconsistent-knock-powerfc/
Share on other sites

Why is the intake temp 50 degrees?

Anyway... do you have a blowby problem?

Is it the same spot the ping occurs? Same/similar rpm and/or load perhaps? (could be a slightly off cell in the tune).

Blocked fuel filter maybe, although doesnt sound like it

Why is the intake temp 50 degrees?

Anyway... do you have a blowby problem?

Is it the same spot the ping occurs? Same/similar rpm and/or load perhaps? (could be a slightly off cell in the tune).

Blocked fuel filter maybe, although doesnt sound like it

I dont know about the intake temp or if it indeed does have a blowby problem. That was just brought up as a possible explaination.

Yeah it generally pings aroung 6200rpm and up but as i said it does that only rarely

Why is the intake temp 50 degrees?

I have the same problem with my intake is always sitting around 50 degrees.

I'm thinking it must be my cooler.

It has the standard end tanks and a custom core. (was like this when i bought the car)

But my knock readings are not high at all

What do you think Nismoid

you will have one or two cells that are too high

when you drive it on the road yourself you typically drive it different to how the operator plonks it on the dyno and does a WOT power run

my advice is take on the street with datalogit plugged in logging the map cells and knocking (knock map)

then youll find the 1 or 2 offending cells, you can take out 2deg in those specific cells and youll be fine

find someone local in perth with datalogit, drive around knock watch and youll see it

or get your tuner to do this for you - but he will charge you

I dont know about the intake temp or if it indeed does have a blowby problem. That was just brought up as a possible explaination.

Yeah it generally pings aroung 6200rpm and up but as i said it does that only rarely

Well if it is around the same spot - then that can only be the tune really. Or similar issue with a coil pack dropping out or something similar triggering the knock.

I have the same problem with my intake is always sitting around 50 degrees.

I'm thinking it must be my cooler.

It has the standard end tanks and a custom core. (was like this when i bought the car)

But my knock readings are not high at all

What do you think Nismoid

stock GTR temp sensor?

its taking heat from the plenum, they all do it so it reads high, but isn't.

should post up your timing map, most tuners only adjust the traced cells and ignore the rest because they cbf the rest, on a dyno it may not load into those cells but on the road wham you might load up cell N15, P16 and pow, knock... because it's got some silly value against it.

unless he was having a bad day i doubt it. i've had my car tuned at hyperdrive a few times and andy usually does a good job of smoothing out the map. altho looking at your dyno graph he hasnt added as much fuel around peak torque as usual

i had the exact same thing when i got my car tuned last, made 360 on one run but he thought it was a bit too unsafe so knocked some timing out and back down to 330

like i said, i can do a knock log for you with datalogit and find where its pinging

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...