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After searching on here for threads about installing a FMIC and finding mixed results I decided to buy a kit and give it a crack for myself. The kit I bought was a Blitz CS return flow type cooler which came with everything I needed - cooler, pipes, clamps, brackets and bolts.

Anyway so here we go

Remove the bumper, there is already a guide for which which I followed and worked great so no point explaining this

IMGP1525.jpg

Remove/undo the brackets of the air filter or remove the airbox, just do enough to get to the clamps on the cooler piping

IMGP1526.jpg

IMGP1527.jpg

Remove the SMIC by undoing the 4 large bolts and 2 smaller ones on the vertical bracket

IMGP1528.jpg

If you're as unlucky as I was you'll discover at some point your car has blown a turbo and the remanents of it are inside the intercooler :)

IMGP1530.jpg

Remove the vertical bracket that was holding the stock cooler on

IMGP1533.jpg

Remove the top reo cross bar and undo the bolts securing the side reo to the main bar and remove the side reo bits under the headlights

Remove the main reo - there is a bolt and a nut on each side, its only necessary to fully undo the front bolt because the rear one is a slide type so just loosen it enough.

IMGP1535.jpg

Fit the cooler using the brackets given in the kit

At this point I had removed the horns as well, but later I was able to fit the back in behind the cooler

IMGP1538.jpg

U can see on this side there are a couple of hoses putting pressure on the cooler, I didn't worry about this and just left it.

IMGP1540.jpg

I got the cooler in the position I wanted and then did a test fit of the reo (first of many!), I found that I needed to get it UP as far as possible on the brackets or the bottom pipe of the cooler would be too low to get the plastic underbody shit to line up with the bumper.

Cut the reo!

I had to bash out the mounting brackets for the top reo bar as well, basically just removed the lip from it so the tops of the cooler tanks would slide in right underneath.

I ended up cutting from the middle crossbar straight across to the edges.

IMGP1542.jpg

U can see here how a section is cut out (action shot!) actually had to take out a bit more than this but you get the idea. Just cut a bit and do a test fit and repeat about 100 times until it's just right. Then smooth it out and hit with a bit of black spray paint.

IMGP1546.jpg

And done! the reo now fits back on!

IMGP1549.jpg

Next is cutting the bumper, quite alot needed to come off here, this is it before

IMGP1551.jpg

and this is it after

on the left here the whole shroud was removed so the pipe would go on, being careful not to mess up the mounting for the driving light. The middle bit basically got munted right back so that it sat flush against the cooler

IMGP1556.jpg

If you've done it correctly some parts previously on your car are now on the garage floor

IMGP1557.jpg

And done!

IMGP1558.jpg

IMGP1559.jpg

IMGP1560.jpg

At first I was a bit hesitant to do this to my car because of the cutting involved, but overall I'm very happy with the result, the cuts in the reo are only really visible if the bumper is removed and even then you gotta know what you're looking for. Although anyone who is looking for cut reo WILL be able to tell no matter how good the job is.

I'd definately recommend this kit, the parts are good quality and no messing around getting it fit, the brackets were spot on and it makes good use of the available space to fit a decent size core in there.

It took about a day and a half to do ... gotta say though I'm pretty happy with the result :down::mad::(

  • Like 1
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Black Holes

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For example, if a man fell into a black hole, he would think that he reached the center of it very quickly. However an observer at the event horizon would think that the man never reached the center at all. Our space and time laws don't seem to apply to objects in the area of a black hole. Einstein's relativity theory is the only one which can explain such phenomena. Einstein claimed that matter and energy are interchangeable, so that there is no "absolute" time and space. There are no constants at all, and measurements of time and space depend on the position of the observer. They are relative. We do not yet fully understand the implications of the relativity theory; but it is interesting that Einstein's theory provided a basis for the idea of black holes before World of warcraft Power Leveling,astronomers started to find some evidence for their existence. It is only recently that astronomers have begun specific research into black hole. In august 1977, a satellite was launched to gather data about the 10 million black holes which are thought to be in the Milky Way. And astronomers are planning a new observatory to study the individual exploding stars believed to be black holes.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Black Holes

Einstein claimed that matter and energy are interchangeable, so that there is no "absolute" time and space. There are no constants at all, and measurements of time and space depend on the position of the observer. They are relative. We do not yet fully understand the implications of the relativity theory; but it is interesting that Einstein's theory provided a basis for the idea of black holes before World of warcraft Power Leveling,

That bit made me laugh cause i played wow..

Thanks for the tutorial, about to undertake this on the brothers S15 in the next few weeks..

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...
After searching on here for threads about installing a FMIC and finding mixed results I decided to buy a kit and give it a crack for myself. The kit I bought was a Blitz CS return flow type cooler which came with everything I needed - cooler, pipes, clamps, brackets and bolts.

Anyway so here we go

Remove the bumper, there is already a guide for which which I followed and worked great so no point explaining this

IMGP1525.jpg

Remove/undo the brackets of the air filter or remove the airbox, just do enough to get to the clamps on the cooler piping

IMGP1526.jpg

IMGP1527.jpg

Remove the SMIC by undoing the 4 large bolts and 2 smaller ones on the vertical bracket

IMGP1528.jpg

If you're as unlucky as I was you'll discover at some point your car has blown a turbo and the remanents of it are inside the intercooler :blink:

IMGP1530.jpg

Remove the vertical bracket that was holding the stock cooler on

IMGP1533.jpg

Remove the top reo cross bar and undo the bolts securing the side reo to the main bar and remove the side reo bits under the headlights

Remove the main reo - there is a bolt and a nut on each side, its only necessary to fully undo the front bolt because the rear one is a slide type so just loosen it enough.

IMGP1535.jpg

Fit the cooler using the brackets given in the kit

At this point I had removed the horns as well, but later I was able to fit the back in behind the cooler

IMGP1538.jpg

U can see on this side there are a couple of hoses putting pressure on the cooler, I didn't worry about this and just left it.

IMGP1540.jpg

I got the cooler in the position I wanted and then did a test fit of the reo (first of many!), I found that I needed to get it UP as far as possible on the brackets or the bottom pipe of the cooler would be too low to get the plastic underbody shit to line up with the bumper.

Cut the reo!

I had to bash out the mounting brackets for the top reo bar as well, basically just removed the lip from it so the tops of the cooler tanks would slide in right underneath.

I ended up cutting from the middle crossbar straight across to the edges.

IMGP1542.jpg

U can see here how a section is cut out (action shot!) actually had to take out a bit more than this but you get the idea. Just cut a bit and do a test fit and repeat about 100 times until it's just right. Then smooth it out and hit with a bit of black spray paint.

IMGP1546.jpg

And done! the reo now fits back on!

IMGP1549.jpg

Next is cutting the bumper, quite alot needed to come off here, this is it before

IMGP1551.jpg

and this is it after

on the left here the whole shroud was removed so the pipe would go on, being careful not to mess up the mounting for the driving light. The middle bit basically got munted right back so that it sat flush against the cooler

IMGP1556.jpg

If you've done it correctly some parts previously on your car are now on the garage floor

IMGP1557.jpg

And done!

IMGP1558.jpg

IMGP1559.jpg

IMGP1560.jpg

At first I was a bit hesitant to do this to my car because of the cutting involved, but overall I'm very happy with the result, the cuts in the reo are only really visible if the bumper is removed and even then you gotta know what you're looking for. Although anyone who is looking for cut reo WILL be able to tell no matter how good the job is.

I'd definately recommend this kit, the parts are good quality and no messing around getting it fit, the brackets were spot on and it makes good use of the available space to fit a decent size core in there.

It took about a day and a half to do ... gotta say though I'm pretty happy with the result :down::(:rofl:

i have also fitted one of these... quite simple... just need the tools

  • 6 months later...

After searching on here for threads about installing a FMIC and finding mixed results I decided to buy a kit and give it a crack for myself. The kit I bought was a Blitz CS return flow type cooler which came with everything I needed - cooler, pipes, clamps, brackets and bolts.

...

At first I was a bit hesitant to do this to my car because of the cutting involved, but overall I'm very happy with the result, the cuts in the reo are only really visible if the bumper is removed and even then you gotta know what you're looking for. Although anyone who is looking for cut reo WILL be able to tell no matter how good the job is.

I'd definately recommend this kit, the parts are good quality and no messing around getting it fit, the brackets were spot on and it makes good use of the available space to fit a decent size core in there.

It took about a day and a half to do ... gotta say though I'm pretty happy with the result

Thanks heaps Realor for this DIY, great work!!

I just installed a FMIC on my car using these instructions and documented the process here:

R34 Gtt Front Mount Intercooler Installation - Some tips for a Trust vertical/turnflow kit

Anyone looking for how the get the front bar off there's a good DIY here:

Taking Off Gtt R34 Front Bumper - With Pictures

Cheers

Edited by V28VX37
  • Like 1
  • 11 months later...

Excuse the thread bump - but nice guide.

I am currently installing a cooling pro stealth return flow intercooler at the moment. Got it all plumbed up fine - just have to cut the reinforcing bar and trim the front bar, then reinstall them both.

It is worth noting that with this intercooler on an R34, if you bolt the centre mount to the front of the car, neither of the two side mounting points line up with anything, no matter how you position the supplied brackets. They come close but still won't work without modification.

Edited by R34mac

thanks for the guide made my install easy as .. i used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to cut the front reo took me 3 cuts to get it right and a neat cut too

ive got a r34 nismo front kit and this didnt require cutting for the intercooler

  • 1 month later...

thanks for the guide made my install easy as .. i used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to cut the front reo took me 3 cuts to get it right and a neat cut too

ive got a r34 nismo front kit and this didnt require cutting for the intercooler

I have that bar as well and didnt have to cut it either. I also only had to cut one side of the reo to get it back on. There was just a bit of messing around getting the return pipe and cooler up high enough so the undertray would bolt back up. No problems though and its lowered about 2 inches :D

  • 2 weeks later...

I have that bar as well and didnt have to cut it either. I also only had to cut one side of the reo to get it back on. There was just a bit of messing around getting the return pipe and cooler up high enough so the undertray would bolt back up. No problems though and its lowered about 2 inches :D

there was a bolt i didnt need in the kit coz for some reason it was to far to be bolted to the hole in the shasy lol.. didnt have a problem with the return pipe tho fit quite well above the gravel tray ... recently put a oil cooler n which is on the drivers side before the window washer bottle.. that sits on the grave tray hope it doesnt crack if i hit a bump

  • 1 month later...
  • 9 months later...

Apologies to bring this thread back up to rave from the grave.

Just installed a JustJap Return Flow Stealth FMIC kit on my S2 R33 gtst. If people are looking into getting this kit for their R33, be prepared to trim of quite a fair amount of the front bar, as well as the back of the passenger side fog lamp housing.

The hot pipe bend that feeds into the core sits right behind the fog map housing, which mean you need to take away a fair bit of it away before the bend sits flush.

Also another trick is to combine the two L brackets that comes with the kit into one joining piece. Then you can use this one piece to fix the core on the driver's side onto the bottom of the chassis, right under the aircon core.

  • 4 weeks later...

I tryed to install a blitz return flow kit on my r34 last night but could not get the piping to plum up.

I got the cooler into position with brackets and all and reo back on but could not get the pipes back into place do I use all the stock hoses ? And just drop the stock intercooler ?

Also the bottom intercooler pipe is 2 inch and the intercooler out let is 2 1/2 inch. Is this how every kit is ? And they had to use a reducer to fit the pipe to the cooler ? (Which my kit did not come with)

Ps I bought it from eBay from jdm plant

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