Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Due to an upgrade to an Auto style gearbox i am selling my whole manual gear conversion for a 32/33 push or pull style GTR GTS4

It consists of a

* Almost brand new Par dog gearbox dog and straight cut 1st to 4th and helical fifth with synchro, billet selector forks and input output shafts, serviced transfer case with all bearings and seals including front bearing slide replaced.

* Almost new exedy triple plate carbon race clutch that has been balanced

* C's short shifter and razo gearknob

*One piece chrome moly tailshaft

*New slave cylinder and braided clutch line

*Field torque split controller for attessa

With the exception of the torque split controller all this stuff has done no more than about 30km's light work and am only selling due to a good friend doing me a great deal on an auto setup for drags.

I have paid well over $15000 for all this stuff and am only asking $9500ono

I can organise freight or you can pick up directly from either Canberra or Sydney.

Sydney buyers i only come every few weeks so it will take a few weeks to get there.

Please pm or phone me on 0431318930

It is still in the car so is hard to take pics but i can show you first hand the full setup

I still have most receipts for all this stuff if needed

i am willing to seperate things so put your bids in on stuff.

I had this complete kit sold last month but the buyer pulled out.

I have been offered 4500 for the gearbox and would want at least 2200 for the clutch as they are almost double this

how much would it be for the dog box and clutch together?

C west short shifter $150 Exedy triple plate carbon(awesome clutch if you want a street like feel but able to withstand rev limit slipping launches )$2200 no offers Field torque split $200,

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
×
×
  • Create New...