Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, was cruising along the highway the other day and the 'overheating cat' light came on and the engine died. Pulled over and the car would start, get to 1000~ rpm and then die again. Pressing the accelerator before it dies does nothing. After unplugging and replugging the 02 sensor wire on the dump pipe the car started fine.

The next day I had the same problem but playing with the 02 sensor plug doesn't fix it. Getting a new 02 sensor tomorrow hoping that does the trick.

Would a stuffed 02 sensor cause this problem? I thought it would just cause poor fuel economy, not cause the car to not run at all.

Car is a rb25det r32 with only mods being a tuned power fc and walbro fuel pump.

Cheers.

Edited by eddieneedsboost
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288869-rb25det-dies-after-starting/
Share on other sites

I think the fact you fiddled with the 02 sensor and then it started is coincidence. No it cant cause this problem unless there is a short of some sort.

Check your Air Flow Metre. They sometimes give the problem you describe.

Also, check to see if 02 feedback is switched ON on your PowerFC, (ETC > Function select. Check PFC FAQ on here) you could be replacing it for nothing. If its OFF then leave it and dont replace it because it isnt doing anything, dont switch it ON either. If it is ON then you can replace it if you want to.

don't know if this is any help but on my 33 it was idling to around 100rpm then just stalling. Got my dad to have a look at it and it turned out the cable coming from the O2 sensor had melted as it was resting on motor or exhaust manifold and that popped a fuse somewhere. My old man replaced the fuse (dont ask me where it was i wasn't with him at the time) and it worked fine ever since.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
×
×
  • Create New...