Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys i have posted this pic and put arrows to the location,all i need to know if this is the place to run the line for a mechanical speco boost gauge?

ive put the pic up as when i have asked before without a pic the only answer i got was that the guy used a t-piece on his which pretty much didn't help me at all as i needed to know where to run it from.

please let me know.

post-40900-1253600957_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289045-please-take-a-look-at-the-pic/
Share on other sites

I have been told a number of times ... (and I have done it this way and I also have a speco mechanical boost guage) to t-piece it off the hose that connects at the front of the stock bov...

  • 3 weeks later...

sorry for bringing up an old topic but rather do this than make a new one,i decided to use the hose that goes to the stock bov as its best to fit the t-piece but i have another problem.

with the speco mech 2" boost gauge are they meant to come with 2 compression sleeves?cause mine only has one and also when i use the only compression sleeve and one of the compression nuts and do it up tight onto the boost gauge the white pressure hose can be pulled out very easily is this normal?

there should of been a round brass ring that only just slips over the white hose this ring needs to be tight when slipped on to help with the crimping when nut is tightened. mine had the right size ring for the white hose that came with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...