Targa B Vehicle Regulations?

[toffy]

hey guys , i'm looking into getting into targa class (and out of hq's lol) , i'm about to purchase a car and before i make my final decision i really need to know what modifications can/can't be done to the vehicle (s) (its between 3 cars , r32 , r33 and an s13.... or the c33 i already have but i'm unsure if it's eligable? ) . can anyone help?

Edited September 23, 2009 by toffy

[sav man]

targa b is based on lap times, so you should be able to enter anything that dosn't lap faster than the set times (61 for symmons, and baskerville from memory)

[DJRIFT]

hey toffy.

im not sure that Stu can help you as even thoe its called Targa class its not really based on Targa rules. its just a Class that anything can be entered into.

From my understanding there is no rules bar the times it does.

Cars can have any sort of turbo, any size rims/ brakes and any type of rubber on them.

if you wanted to travel around Aus racing than this isnt really a class nation wide so you would be better off getting into improved production or super sedans. But if you want to race a car that makes you happy in the way it is built than this is the class for you.

Id personally love to run a Jap car thats got massive aero ect ect things that arent allowed in other classes.

[woolls]

here are the regs,

TARGA A- Outright: Open to any Modified Specification `Targa Type’ car fitted with grooved tyres (As

Previous Seasons)

TARGA B- Open to any Limited Modified Specification `Targa Type’ car fitted with grooved tyres that

meet the following minimum lap times:

* Baskerville- 60.00 seconds * Symmons- 61.00 seconds

TARGA C- Open to any Limited Modified Specification two-wheel drive `Targa Type’ car, non-rotary

powered up to a capacity of 3300cc (using CAMS calculation rules) fitted with grooved tyres that

meets the following minimum lap times:

* Baskerville- 63.00 seconds * Symmons- 66.00 seconds

[toffy]

cheers ben , damo & leigh , ok so basically you can have anything you want as long as it does 60' or better on baskerville and 61' or better at symmons on semi slicks? . Wow targa b sounds easy after hq's , i bet it's not though!! . is there anything i should know before buying/building a car? .

My plan is to take the hq to bathurst etc so i don't need to be in an australia wide class atm with any other category (although if i could afford it i would love to get into ip, or even targa a, maybe in a couple more years ).

[t01-100]

toffy - yeah when we set up the revised targa class back in '04 we thought actual rules would end up seeing people excluded for no good reason and thats where the time brackets came in to create competition in the classing of a, b and c. The words limited modification etc were used to simply try and describe how modified the cars are, not that the cars actually have limited modifications

the only real short fall in b is that unless you have a 4wd car you will always play second fiddle off the line and the if the 4wd is driven well for the rest of the race you may not be able to pull back the gap and overtake without breaking the minimum time... the shorter the race the worse the problem. therefore, anyone wanting to actually be competitive in b and have a 95% chance at the championship needs to have a 4wd car.

as it just so happens heres a good base! the price is neg and its the ligher first gen body too!! http://www.my105.com/12415

[Scando]

Check out this link:

http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-2601

A few rough rules that were set in place at the start of last season but it's still very open. Basically, as long as it doesn't get too close to sport sedan specs then nobody will worry what you run.

Out of your car choices I would choose the R32. Best bang for buck targa class car getting about in my opinion. A well set-up R32 would have to be the cheapest way to run towards the front of B. Build a good 25/30 for it and you could run at the front of A.

S13 you're limited to a 4 cylinder and it seems hard to make big power reliably out of an SR. Having said that, Lawson has the lap record for both tracks using an SR20 but his budget is a bit different to most people and his is a very well developed and set-up car.

R33 and C33 are both at a disadvantage to the R32 because of weight. No offense intended Woolls

As Stu said, if you have somebody in a 4WD doing the base time for B then they will always get a 2-3 second break off the start and the only way to catch them is to break the base time and get penalised.

I've noticed Ross Marsden's R32 is up for sale on MY105. Has plenty of power and good brakes, just needs the suspension sorted a bit more and it should run on the targa B base time at both tracks.

Targa class is starting to create some interesting opportunities. As you know, they got to run with the supercars at Symmons this year. On the 7th & 8th of November a mob of us are heading over to Phillip Island to run as a support for the Supercars again.

Edited October 9, 2009 by Scando

[woolls]

R33 and C33 are both at a disadvantage to the R32 because of weight. No offense intended Woolls

Targa class is starting to create some interesting opportunities. As you know, they got to run with the supercars at Symmons this year. On the 7th & 8th of November a mob of us are heading over to Phillip Island to run as a support for the Supercars again.

No Offense taken Shane.

good luck over at PI, wish i was going also, but couldn't get the time off work.

[toffy]

cheers shane & stuart (not a fan of evo sorry mate) , the c33 is 28kg heavier than a mate of mines r32 and with that extra weight over the rear i wouldv'e thought that was a good thing apart from take off (and theres no B pillar so the chassis may be weaker) . i've been doing a fair bit of research on what has what etc . the main advantage for the 33 is the different mounting points on the subframes (slightly different geometry) compared to r32 etc and the slightly extra width (which is probably offset by the extra length) the c33's problem will be the extra length without the width (but it can handle lower offset wheels that makes the track width about the same as r33. i'm probably just nit picking now though . i'm about to take the c33 out for a test day (along with a mates r32 and possibly a r33 , just to compare the three , i can bring back the times and post them up if anyone is interested?) i figure the best way to test all of them is by taking them out on the track on the same day and seeing what works for me best? do you guys have any suggestions on tyres? (will be using r33 gtr 17x9" rims) cheers

Edited October 10, 2009 by toffy

[DJRIFT]

I think after haveing a r32 and having worked on multiple r33s and r34s that i would grab a r33 for circuit if i had to pick.

the reasons why. r32s while being cheap in general (if you get a cheap one) are usually over priced and they are slowly being thinned out with not to manny cheap race only ones getting about.

R33s are more so common to the average punter than a r32 meaning more parts slowly comming through the system. Plus i have seen some stupidly cheap good r33s for sale.

R33 has better suspension geometry front and rear than the r32, front end mainly.

R33 has better fuel tank placement.

R33 has slightly bigger brakes but not really worth keeping.

R33 has the best nissan gear box. that alone should settle it.

The weight difference between the r32 and 33 is probably only the difference in the gear box but if you put a 25 box in your 32 than there goes the weight difference.

the diffs are simmilar in strength and design. somthing the R34 lacks

The rb25 is a lot better base than the 20 for circuit work. the rb20 is so lazy off boost and has limited torque.

any way thats just a few things to help you with toffy.

[Scando]

I didn't realise the weights were so close. I was thinking there was like 100kg+ difference. Sounds like the C33 might be the go for something different

As far as Tyres go, I was running Bridgestones and have now switched to Dunlops. I found the Dunlops are about half a second to a second quicker than the Bridgestones at both tracks. Lawson, Fulton, Pease, Garwood, Warren, etc all run Dunlops and most run the R compound. Bridgestone and Dunlop are around the same price but the Bridgestones seem to wear a bit better so it depends on your budget. Once you get your steering geometry and pressures right you can get good wear out of the Dunlops but everything has to be spot on. If you go that way then Fulton gives very good advice on how to set the car up for them when he sells them to you. Cannan & Grace have been running Toyos lately and getting good results. I'm keen to try a set cause they're quite a bit cheaper!

No Offense taken Shane.

good luck over at PI, wish i was going also, but couldn't get the time off work.

Thanks Leigh. That sucks that you can't get the time off work, it'll be an awesome event. I can't afford to do it but I'm doing it anyway