Gtr Engine Rebuild Advise

[bbb]

Hi guys.

It looks like I've killed the engine in my R33 GTR. (It did a hose, lost all the coolant and cooked itself)

So now I need to make a few decisions on which way to go. Thinking that it must be a sign to get a tough engine built.

Looking for any advise on what to look for - specs / engine buiders / etc etc.

Car will still be a street car, so must be drivable and not attract the wrong attention, but may do a couple of track days.

Hoping to get about 400rwhp (or more). Is this reasonable? too much or too little?

[Moodles2]

You've already got a RB26 there, 26/30 conversion (rb26 topend + rb30 bottom end) will see 400hp fairly comfortably with a pair of -5 garretts or a big single turbo.

[Giffo]

id keep the 26...

not a fan of the 26/30 combo!

mine made 360rwkw with a 26 build

forged internals

drop in tomei cams

-5 turbos

power fc injectors and all the usual mods..

and it was ready for final tune before some F***wit stole it..

if u want more info pm me for people i used for machining and parts and prices etc etc..

i built the engine myself...

not too hard to do if u have an intermediate mechanical mind!

my 2cents worth

ohhh and prior to the rebuild - car ran 11.7 on the 1/4mile with turbos, exhaust and screwed in boost!

so decent build liek what i did keeping the 26, should see it run mid to low 10s and wasnt a pig to drive on the street!

cheerio

[Sheriff Wan]

Can I suggest you do a search and also look in the Rb26 upgrade thread and maybe contact some of the ones that are similar to what you want.

[TiTAN]

Proengines do an RB30 forged short block (bottom end only) for $8000 that includes the adaptor to suit the 4wd sump (your mechanic will then need to transfer the head/sensors/etc from your blown up engine onto that bottom end and install it in the car) . As far as nice to drive on the street engines go the RB30 conversion is hard to beat.

[FAT33R]

Depends on you budget.

And what sort of power your aiming for.

[R31Nismoid]

If you only want 400rwhp - It is very cheap and easy.

400rwhp + big/tough motor build = waste of cashola mate.

All you need are the following:

1. Decent rod bolts (stock rods are fine).

2. Some good bearings, ensure the motor is balanced up well and so on

3. Set of forged pistons

4. Garrett -9 turbos

5. Cam Gears

6. Might as well doing some oil control mods. FI Guide has a link for what you need to do (restrictors etc)

7. Injectors, anything 550cc or above

8. ECU

9. Maybe coil packs, depends on the conditon of your current ones so this is the only subjective item on the list

10. N1 Oil pump, factory GTR water pump is ok (make sure you buy a new one)

You don't even need to touch the head if you don't want too for that power aim.

The above build will also easily go upto 450rwhp without much effort. So a bit more than your initial aim, will be nice and responsive as well.

This is with around 20psi from the -9's. Should do it easily and it will run day in/out without a problem.

The above is probably as small of a list as possible for your aim, whilst still making sure the car/setup is very reliable and keeping the costs as low as possible without skimping

Things you do NOT need:

1. FPR (fuel pressure reg), Fuel rails etc etc.

2. Garrett -5's - They are 380rwkw+ turbos (520rwhp+)

3. Cams, totally uneccesary

4. 3ltr/RB30 bottom end

5. Head work

6. Aftermarket BOV's, Aftermarket piping kits

7. Bigger intercooler etc etc

ohhh and prior to the rebuild - car ran 11.7 on the 1/4mile with turbos, exhaust and screwed in boost!

FYI - You can run 11.5 on factory turbos if you can drive, been done quite a few times

[TiTAN]

the RB30 conversion while not neccecary will make for a nicer drive off boost, very few people do the conversion and regret it.

[R31Nismoid]

It would want to make it nicer considering the rebuild without it would be substancially cheaper (being he is not chasing big power).

$8000 for pro engines vs what, $3000 for a rebuild of what he has now.

So that's what it comes down too. 3cm higher, I/C piping not lining up, exhaust not lining up - its more cost and effort than just a bottom end change over.

So add another $1000 at least to the pro engines package (im in no way saying its a bad one, its very well priced)

My car drives perfectly fine off boost, and i've owned a 30ET, 25DET, 20DET in the past we well - i honestly don't think for under 400rwkw it's worth the effort in a GTR.

Admittadly im probably 100kg's or so less than a GTR but it's not a major difference. Similar to other GTR's i've been around in with GT-SS's, perfectly smooth around the town.

I have boost building virtually off the line being im using correctly sized turbos for my aim (GT-SS).

Cruising around town is fine as well, no hole to speak of.

If the cam gears and similar are all setup correctly as well as a decent tune which has as much to do with it as any other factor.

If -5's were used, then without a doubt you would feel a bit of laziness in the bottom end with a 26...

However put a NEO head on with VCT which is becoming more common these days - making very interesting things happen

Horses for courses i guess and it soley comes down to budget and what you can justify.

For 400-450rwhp, there is no way in the world i could justify a 3ltr in a GTR just for a little better response for over $4000 difference, as that is the only benefit.

[bbb]

Thanks for the info guys.

Next week I will be getting the engined pulled and stripped down to see how much damage there is / how much I can salvage.

Once I now what needs to be done to get running again, then can make decisions on what to upgrade.

Currently budgeting $5-10K. (will have a better idea when engine opened)

[R31Nismoid]

Why when its open to work out?

The only thing you need to worry about is the condition of the crank. If its ok to reuse - easy.

If not, its only $1100 more.

Otherwise you're replacing bearings, gaskets, rod bolts and all that kinda thing plus machining anyhow.

So that's really the only major factor which i don't think you'll need to worry about.

I'd take an assumption here and say the block will also be ok, even if it's not, nothing major to get a new one (they are cheap)

[DMAN#20]

im thinking that if you cooked it then the head will be a little out of shape. a surface grind may fix it though the casting may have lost its integrity.

[555NAP]

Hi guys.

It looks like I've killed the engine in my R33 GTR. (It did a hose, lost all the coolant and cooked itself)

So now I need to make a few decisions on which way to go. Thinking that it must be a sign to get a tough engine built.

Looking for any advise on what to look for - specs / engine buiders / etc etc.

Car will still be a street car, so must be drivable and not attract the wrong attention, but may do a couple of track days.

Hoping to get about 400rwhp (or more). Is this reasonable? too much or too little?

i think u need to learn how to look after your engine........ how could u not notice losing all your water/coolant? just spending big on a new engine will not stop it from happening again, it will just cost you more!

[MrStabby]

i think u need to learn how to look after your engine........ how could u not notice losing all your water/coolant? just spending big on a new engine will not stop it from happening again, it will just cost you more!

Yeah he needs to work on his spider sense.... Often the temp gauge gives you no indication of a problem, because there's no hot coolant on it....

[555NAP]

Yeah he needs to work on his spider sense.... Often the temp gauge gives you no indication of a problem, because there's no hot coolant on it....

did he eva check or replace the hoses in engine bay? probably the originals? prevention is the key!