Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nice work!! Thats very good going, my large can actuator is due to arrive this week :bunny:

Hey Lithium has that box arrived yet.

Looking forward to your results after the rigmarole you've had with prv's and ebc's and so on.

ok so shipping from ATP is $95 - f**k that!!! Is that what you paid conan? It would cost them $20us max for express

I spoke to MTQ they have a "small can" 19psi actuator there for $135 does that sound like it would do the job?

I am getting my car tuned in a couple of weeks and want to try remove every possible weakness before it goes on the rollers

RB30DET with internal gate XR6 GT35R currently holding 15psi with the standard actuator but next tune i want to up it to 22psi so thinking I will need the higher PSI actuator

What is the benefit of "Large Can" ?

i have a spare small can 19psi sitting here tha'll i'll post to you for $134.99. ask mtq to price match that shit

Hey Lithium has that box arrived yet.

Looking forward to your results after the rigmarole you've had with prv's and ebc's and so on.

Haha cheers mate, me too - obviously :laugh: The big can actuator sounds very promising... though its a fair bit of boost on the stocker RB25! :)

The actuator is coming back from the US with a mate of mine, he actually bought it while he was over there and threw it in his luggage so no freight :laugh: He left the US on Wednesday so I guess I should be able to grab it this weekend.

i have a spare small can 19psi sitting here tha'll i'll post to you for $134.99. ask mtq to price match that shit

funny you mention it the one they have is in perth!

Are you trying to say it shouldn't cost $135?

na thats about what they cost new. i got given a 2nd hand one for free from a mate because he thought it was a 1 bar, which is what i needed, but turns out its 19psi, bit too much for me at the time.

^^^Thanks mate...

Just out of interest...i'm running a 3076R on a 2JZ (so its similar to a 3076 on a rb25/30)...and i've managed to get the car tuned but its still running the standard small can actuator that the turbo comes with...i've attached the graph of boost response below...it seems to be ramping up to full boost by 3300rpm and holding 18psi perfectly...i was wondering if you guys think there will be more gains in boost response with a large can actuator?

post-24077-1259989953_thumb.jpg

take the vac line off the actuator and make sure the gate stays shut then see what rpm you hit the same boost at. dont keep going tho. thats a pretty nice boost graph already tho

take the vac line off the actuator and make sure the gate stays shut then see what rpm you hit the same boost at. dont keep going tho. thats a pretty nice boost graph already tho

Thanks mate...i'll give that a go sometime...its pretty responsive as is but if i can get full boost even sooner that would be great...i went with this setup mainly because i wanted response and midrange anyway...

I just remembered that i'm acutally running next to no preload on the actuator at the moment too...i might shorten the rod slightly to see if there are any gains too...

^^^ Thanks...i know that...it also increases the pressure on the flap so it takes more before it starts to crack open...

I actually gave the actuator rod a couple of turns today...boost response seems a tad better down low...might keep going a turn at a time till it starts to creep upwards...i guess a big can actuator might not be needed for now...

very nice boost curve there limpus!!!

what kind of power you making?!?

Power is very disappointing at the moment...only at 280rwkw at 18psi...this is through a restrictive 2.5" muffler...when I find another exhaust system i'm happy with i'll hit the dyno again for a retune...but at least for now its pretty responsive for a daily...

  • 1 month later...

Another happy user of the big can actuator, here :D Well at least so far...

I took it out for a blat yesterday with it connect, and with my pressure relief valve and AVC-R completely removed from the picture and preload wound right down. With it like that, it hit around 13psi peak which was nice to know.

I then wound some preload into it to get it up to around 15psi, and this is where things started looking really good. Without any extra boost control I was able to reach 1bar by around 3700rpm. This was impossible with the old actuator without removing the hose!

I decided to leave the messing around with the boost control to see if I could make it climb to 16-17psi with any stability (I couldn't reliably with the old setup) for the morning commute, which resulted in me being able to give some words of wisdom to others who are bad in the morning.

DON'T replumb your boost control setup in the morning if you are not a morning person. My vacuum hoses are too short to reach from the AVCR solenoid to the actuator now as I split them to put the pressure relief valve in between. Because I wanted to play, I just wound the pressure relief valve right down (I triple checked I was winding it the right way, and I was) and used it to join the hose so it could reach and all seemed well.

I went out and gave it a quick squirt - which resulted in this: Moby2bar.jpg

Oops. Nothing departed block or anything, so hopefully no harm done - in theory I have a boost limit of around 18psi so the rest of it should in theory have gone into the plenum but not joined with any fuel to make bad stuff happen. Still a bit of a fright though!

I went back to the engine bay and remembered the pressure relief valve (unlike regulators) have to be aligned with the airflow, otherwise it will be permanently closed. My bad. I spun it around the other way and went for a slightly more tentative drive, and to my joy the thing seems to spool every bit as well as with the pressure relief valve in there - but once full boost is hit, it holds much more consistantly!

So far so good, next stop... dyno tune :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
    • We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.
    • The main catch phrase for any car is "the eye of the beholder", and "personal tastes and preferences" And as for the plastic "flares", I honestly think they look cheap and tacky, and I cannot see them aging well, maybe if they were body colour they might look better to my eyes, but, I would still prefer it the were more like the older WRX STI models that had the wider body metal panels In saying all this 5hit, I wouldn't buy a new WRX again, even if it had the wide body metal panels    
×
×
  • Create New...