Jump to content
SAU Community

Help With Speedo

Curtis.Cow

By Curtis.Cow,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

rych Contributor

rych

Posted
Posted

same with mine, mine seems to be off by about 20kmph, it only start budging from 0, once i get the speed up to around 20kmph+.

btw, im using a gtr cluster instead for my r33 gtst.If the ecu gets the signal from speedo, not sure if it'll be harmful to the engine on the long run. Been using it for 6 months so far no prob. Friends always teases me wth am i going so slow, i told him my speedo is in MPH lol.

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
same with mine, mine seems to be off by about 20kmph, it only start budging from 0, once i get the speed up to around 20kmph+.

btw, im using a gtr cluster instead for my r33 gtst.If the ecu gets the signal from speedo, not sure if it'll be harmful to the engine on the long run. Been using it for 6 months so far no prob. Friends always teases me wth am i going so slow, i told him my speedo is in MPH lol.

I wrote a thread on how to tweak your speedo by small amounts, there is a MP/H to KM/H conversion too but that might not help you.

There is another tutorial about adjusting your speedo using an electronic calibrator from Jaycar, that may help you...

  • 4 months later...
EVL-R33 Proficient

EVL-R33

Posted
Posted

I got this same problem, my speedo and ODO dont work, but everything else does, so im assuming its my speedo sensor in the gearbox (which im a bout to go down and inspect).

I have an Apexi PFC with hand controller, I used to get accurate speed readings on that before, but the speed readings are on 0 constantly now, so i assume that the speedo sensor (gearbox) gives the cluster (dash) and ECU the readings. In regards to the posts above, I dont think that the ECU gets readings from wheel sensors (on R33s).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Joni Boi
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By Joni Boi · Posted

      Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • Kinkstaah
      Import insurance in 2025

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The max they would go for me is 50.
    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
×
×
  • Create New...