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Hey guys hoping someone can help me out with this.

Recently my immobilizer has been acting strange. I'll disarm the immobilizer/alarm and go to open my door, won't open. I have to use the key and open handle at the same time to get the door open.

When I am in the car, door closed and insert key in ignition, it starts beeping at me as if I have left my door open, however when I turn the key/start car, the beeping stops. All the while the locks inside the car have locked again. I can sit there hitting the "unlock" button all I want, it disengages the locks on the door, they they re-engage themselves again. I noticed that the lock on the drivers side doesnt move much at all but the passenger side does.

I own an R32 GTR and have an AutoWatch alarm installed. I have tried resetting the alarm but to no avail. Also, and I think this has something to do with the alarm issue, when I am driving, after say, 2 mins of driving, the audio from my car stereo will cut out. I can eject CD and put it back in, will play for a few seconds then stop. All the functions on the deck still work fine and the CD is still going through the tracks ok, just no sound.

This is driving me round the bend ;)

-Chris

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"I can sit there hitting the "unlock" button all I want, it disengages the locks on the door, they they re-engage themselves again."

I have this problem the gent above me does but with the passenger door only in a ER33 RB25.

I have taken the door cards off both doors . . the short appears to be near the door lock in the drivers door.

I checked the plugs on all wiring in the door and now the passenger door doesnt work at all.

I cannot even hear the relay kicking under the dash anymore.

Not sure if this is a fuse , relay or another problem all together.

Any help would be great.

Hey MrC, I spoke to Chris a few days ago and he suggested that the rod that actuates the lock opening/closing has re-adjusted itself somehow. I will be pulling the door trim off mine tomorrow to have a look, but from what he told me, basically requires a hex key (allen key) or some such just to adjust the rod so as the lock can fully open and stay open without closing automatically and therefore locking the passenger door at the same time. Will let you know how I go :D I'll take some pics too if I remember... need to find a memory card heh.

Okie dokie, done.

This was dead easy.

DSC00006.jpg

DSC00007.jpg

The bracket holding the rod at the top was loose, so I had to hold it, push it to the right and tighten it up. This allowed the motor/mechanism (far right with the rubber collar) to actuate far enough to fully unlock the door and stay unlocked. All in all took me 10 mins.

Chris, you're a champion, many thanks :laugh:

-Chris

Cheers for the help . . I have only one question.

My actuator is located in the door near the door lock.

Would the remedy still be the same or similiar?

I had the door card off the drivers door last weekend and since then the passenger door doesnt even open with the keyless entry?

Is this a related problem or is perhaps a deeper seeded problem?

The door card will be coming off this friday reguardless . . . will let you know how I go.

Thanks for the help again . . there was a little more to the problem than what I thought.

The keyless entry actuator had been placed too close the the plug that goes into the centeral locking unit near the lock.

It had broken all but around 3 strands of wire going to the plug.

After being moved I also found 4 other places the wires had been pulled tight and cut by this miss placement as well as the pins in the plug being bent.

One problem solved , several more found . . LOL!

Thanks again for the help.

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