Jump to content
SAU Community

Central Locking Issues

stormtrooper

By stormtrooper,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

stormtrooper Proficient

stormtrooper

Posted
Posted

Hey guys hoping someone can help me out with this.

Recently my immobilizer has been acting strange. I'll disarm the immobilizer/alarm and go to open my door, won't open. I have to use the key and open handle at the same time to get the door open.

When I am in the car, door closed and insert key in ignition, it starts beeping at me as if I have left my door open, however when I turn the key/start car, the beeping stops. All the while the locks inside the car have locked again. I can sit there hitting the "unlock" button all I want, it disengages the locks on the door, they they re-engage themselves again. I noticed that the lock on the drivers side doesnt move much at all but the passenger side does.

I own an R32 GTR and have an AutoWatch alarm installed. I have tried resetting the alarm but to no avail. Also, and I think this has something to do with the alarm issue, when I am driving, after say, 2 mins of driving, the audio from my car stereo will cut out. I can eject CD and put it back in, will play for a few seconds then stop. All the functions on the deck still work fine and the CD is still going through the tracks ok, just no sound.

This is driving me round the bend ;)

-Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289330-central-locking-issues/
Share on other sites
Mr MRC Apprentice

Mr MRC

Posted
Posted

"I can sit there hitting the "unlock" button all I want, it disengages the locks on the door, they they re-engage themselves again."

I have this problem the gent above me does but with the passenger door only in a ER33 RB25.

I have taken the door cards off both doors . . the short appears to be near the door lock in the drivers door.

I checked the plugs on all wiring in the door and now the passenger door doesnt work at all.

I cannot even hear the relay kicking under the dash anymore.

Not sure if this is a fuse , relay or another problem all together.

Any help would be great.

stormtrooper Proficient

stormtrooper

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey MrC, I spoke to Chris a few days ago and he suggested that the rod that actuates the lock opening/closing has re-adjusted itself somehow. I will be pulling the door trim off mine tomorrow to have a look, but from what he told me, basically requires a hex key (allen key) or some such just to adjust the rod so as the lock can fully open and stay open without closing automatically and therefore locking the passenger door at the same time. Will let you know how I go :D I'll take some pics too if I remember... need to find a memory card heh.

stormtrooper Proficient

stormtrooper

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okie dokie, done.

This was dead easy.

DSC00006.jpg

DSC00007.jpg

The bracket holding the rod at the top was loose, so I had to hold it, push it to the right and tighten it up. This allowed the motor/mechanism (far right with the rubber collar) to actuate far enough to fully unlock the door and stay unlocked. All in all took me 10 mins.

Chris, you're a champion, many thanks :laugh:

-Chris

Mr MRC Apprentice

Mr MRC

Posted
Posted

Cheers for the help . . I have only one question.

My actuator is located in the door near the door lock.

Would the remedy still be the same or similiar?

I had the door card off the drivers door last weekend and since then the passenger door doesnt even open with the keyless entry?

Is this a related problem or is perhaps a deeper seeded problem?

The door card will be coming off this friday reguardless . . . will let you know how I go.

Mr MRC Apprentice

Mr MRC

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the help again . . there was a little more to the problem than what I thought.

The keyless entry actuator had been placed too close the the plug that goes into the centeral locking unit near the lock.

It had broken all but around 3 strands of wire going to the plug.

After being moved I also found 4 other places the wires had been pulled tight and cut by this miss placement as well as the pins in the plug being bent.

One problem solved , several more found . . LOL!

Thanks again for the help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Jarsky · Posted

      This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • Rezz
      Spotted on the street....

      By Rezz · Posted

      A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...