Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

I have only just recently become a 32 owner and already have a few questions if anyone could help.

I've just done an oil change from Royal purple to Motul 4100 turbolight.

They both have the same viscosity range (10w40).

After the change i noticed that my oil pressure is low on idle after driving. Pretty close to zero in fact.

When up in the revs (say 3000 to 4000 revs) the pressure needle doesnt get much higher than 2kg/cm^2

The royal purple that was in it also did the same thing. But the royal purple wasnt very nice to the motor on cold start up, in that i could hear ticking.

So my question..... Is this a normal reading for oil pressure on the RB20??

cheers,

steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289473-oils-and-oil-pressure/
Share on other sites

Check the link in my sig

EDIT: Just had another look, doesn't have RB20det in there but you get a good idea from it.

Your pressure seems a bit low, but I'd get a sandwich plate on your oil filter and run an aftermarket oil pressure guage from it before you start freaking out, just in case.

Edited by mosquitocoils
Check the link in my sig

EDIT: Just had another look, doesn't have RB20det in there but you get a good idea from it.

Your pressure seems a bit low, but I'd get a sandwich plate on your oil filter and run an aftermarket oil pressure guage from it before you start freaking out, just in case.

Sandwich plate to the oil filter are terrible.

If you want an accurate reading mount it in the sump.

Chances are that the oil pressure is fine. The factory sender is known, and well documented, to be problematic. Get yourself a manual pressure gauge or take it to a mechanic for a pressure test.

Sandwich plate is not necessary as you can just mount it in the same place the factory one goes.

If you want to replace the factory one, they are approx $210 from Nissan.

a mobil 1 fully syn product what else ?

Royal Purple R&D their product and and the 10w40 has a higher film strength than Mobil1 also.

None of which has anything to do with his pressure. His brand of oil is not the problem.

Royal Purple R&D their product and and the 10w40 has a higher film strength than Mobil1 also.

None of which has anything to do with his pressure. His brand of oil is not the problem.

i know that, just wanted to see if anyone got protective of an inferior product.

Lol. Are you being serious?

How are you supposed to get an oil pressure reading from the sump?

You're 100 right, I got my pressure and temps mixed up, sorry.

But yes a sandwich plate will be less accurate for TEMPS not pressure, again must of been drunk when i posted that :laugh:

A sandwich plate is fine for oil temp as most of them have the end of the sensor in the oil flow, its only a problem when there is no flow over the sensor. Take a look at the data sheet of a typical temp sensor and they are accurate to 5% anyway, this will be the biggest source of inaccuracy unless you calibrate your sensor before installation.

I agree the nissan pressure sensor is very unreliable when old. A new one or aftermarket sensor is the way to go.

Motul oils are the goods. Plenty of track cars run them without any problems. Look at Nissan racing cars and you will usually see Motul stickers on the side.

A sandwich plate is fine for oil temp as most of them have the end of the sensor in the oil flow, its only a problem when there is no flow over the sensor. Take a look at the data sheet of a typical temp sensor and they are accurate to 5% anyway, this will be the biggest source of inaccuracy unless you calibrate your sensor before installation.

I agree the nissan pressure sensor is very unreliable when old. A new one or aftermarket sensor is the way to go.

Motul oils are the goods. Plenty of track cars run them without any problems. Look at Nissan racing cars and you will usually see Motul stickers on the side.

comes back to the old saying..."if you don't want to spin a bearing...put Motul in it"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
×
×
  • Create New...