Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well there are a few ways to do this. first of all, if you have a pod, cover it with a plastic bag. you don't want any dust or water getting through it.

first option is to get an airgun for a compressor and just blow all the dust out. this wan't get all of it out but will get most of it out and then you could just wipe everything off with a damp rag.

the other option is to hose if out. if doing this you definately want to remove the coil pack cover if it is still on (would be wise to remove it if using the air gun method too). make sure the engine is cold when hosing it. then once you have hosed it out you would want to use an airgun to blow any water out from around the coils otherwise you will get a missfire for a while until all the water dries out.

yeah in the past ive masked up most/all electrical components and bagged the pod filter, sprayed a can of heavy duty degreaser on it, then used a water compressor to hose it down. then i used air compessor to blow any water out/off electrical parts or just take the car for a quick drive to dry it up. done

Water and compressor is the way to go if you want to do it fast. Done using the methods described above - you'll be as sweet as pie.

But if your really anal like me, just get a bucket, water, sponge, rags, polish and a toothbrush - then start scrubbin!

I had the same problem with the dust! 5+ hours later with the above, mine was as good as new. haha

engine1x.jpg

engine2u.jpg

Edited by KR4-GTR

best to have car running while you steam clean it, as u know when or if u get water in wrong place, you can cover as much or little as u want, only mandatory thing is the pod or airbox..And dont go overboard on top of the coils.. nice job kr4gtr

y do i hav to remove the coilpak cover? So if i cover evrything, spray degreaser, hose it off, let it dry and take it for a drive, thats ok?

because water (and dust) will get in there (even with the cover on) and if you don't take the cover off it will take about an hour of driving with a serious missfire for the water to evaporate. or you can pull the cover off, get it nice and clean, dry it out and not have any issues

well there are a few ways to do this. first of all, if you have a pod, cover it with a plastic bag. you don't want any dust or water getting through it.

first option is to get an airgun for a compressor and just blow all the dust out. this wan't get all of it out but will get most of it out and then you could just wipe everything off with a damp rag.

the other option is to hose if out. if doing this you definately want to remove the coil pack cover if it is still on (would be wise to remove it if using the air gun method too). make sure the engine is cold when hosing it. then once you have hosed it out you would want to use an airgun to blow any water out from around the coils otherwise you will get a missfire for a while until all the water dries out.

First option is safest way. Just make sure to wear goggles and a mask.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
×
×
  • Create New...