Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas

Im thinking of doing a RB25DET conversion into an R31 whilst i have no license and continuing a motor build on my R32.

I was just seeing what some problems i could come across in terms of possibly changing cross members, k-frames etc? gear box mounts?

any info would be great or a link to a possible thread

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289603-rb25-into-r31/
Share on other sites

use stock 31 engine mounts. if your using the manual 25 box and the 31 was originally manual you'll need to mod the xmember to meet all 4 bolts (only lines up with 2 the way it is). if the car was originally auto it'll bolt straight up with a auto xmember. need a vlt or 33 yoke on the standard tailshaft when using the 25 box. only other big thing is the wiring, see 31 forum for that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289603-rb25-into-r31/#findComment-4851331
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...