Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Has anybody had experience with using an LC-1 wb O2 sensor with a power FC? I don't have a datalogit though this might happen in the future. I know that with the datalogit you can connect the LC-1 to the Power FC. But without it what is the best practice? I assume since you only have the 1 wb sensor you would plumb it into the front pipe after the 2 pipes merge. Leave the standard NB O2 sensors in place but unplug them and use the analogue outputs from the LC-1 to drive the O2 inputs? Sound about right?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289613-innovate-lc-1-and-power-fc/
Share on other sites

no you cant feed a wideband 02 sensor input into the PFC

you could use a wideband <-> narrowband converter for the 02 sensor signal but that would defeat the purpose

you either have the wideband 02 sensor runing to a wideband 02 gauge or to a digital input on the ECU

in order to drive it to the PFC correctly you need datalogit and plug it into one of the 5v digitla inputs

then you can plot and log digital 5v input from the wideband sensor onto the maps and lots for tuning

I was under the impression the LC-1 was able to output a narrow band output. The powerFC will not be able to use a wideband without the datalogit. I was planning on using this output to still drive the powerFC so it still has closed loop mode. While using the wideband to drive a AFR gauge and hooking up to a computer while tuning the powerFC. I guess what I was asking is wouldn't it be better to use the LC-1 as a wideband to narrowband converter rather than use the 2 standard O2 sensors that way you would only be really running 1 O2 sensor instead of 3.

Cheers

Another concern I had was going from 2 standard O2 sensors to 1. I know on V6 and V8s they run 2 but this would be because they have dual exhausts where as the GTR has 2 outlets that merge. Is there any advantage on the GTR to running 2 O2 sensors? From what I understand the standard O2 sensors cost about $150 each and should be replaced every 40k. For $300 wouldn't you be better off getting the LC-1 and gauge. It is a bit more work initially to get your front pipe modified but after that isn't this a more ecconomical and superior setup?

Please correct me if I am misguided I just can't figure out why anybody would bother replacing their standard O2 sensors if for a fraction more and a bit of work they can have a superior setup that will be cheaper and probably less problematic in the long run.

Thanks

yes sorry, i missed that you can run the narrow output from the wideband sensor/unit into the PFC (or any other stock style ECU) and let the ECU run its normal closed loop etc. the GTR PFC grabs the two 02 sensors and averages them, so you can parrellel it up no problems. it just has two sensors, as you said, likely because it has two exhaust outlets, so pick the average from both

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...