Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 181
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

ok guys if you are reading this please give your opinion im looking in to all the part for the gtr's suspension

im stuck in what to get.

i dont have the buget to run with the Ikeya Formula stuff so what should i do????

do i go with the JUST JAP stuff or with say CUSCO stuff like everything?????

please i need help

I'll pm you the good info and am with Bris! To much money gets wasted in wanky susp for club cars.

Just copy my car. Has nothing to fancy and does pretty well for what it is. Cusco fixed upper arms 3.5deg, adj Cusco rear uppers, tien castor rods and whiteline swaybars with bilstiens. Get the fronts for about $250 secondhand, rears prob $200. Swaybars $500 new. Castor rods $150ish. It has never put me in a bad situation. You having never driven a gtr hard it going to take at least prob 10 trackdays before you even begin to understand how to steer the car let alone touch the susp.

Better than putting $5000 susp in your car you can't understand. The extra trackdays you could do with the money you saved would be more benifitial. I don't get how so many guys do one track day with maybe 25 laps in groups of 3 laps where ther car only does 2 fast and then say they need to take the car to the workshop because it doesn't handle right. They prob haven't even learnt how to drive the new setup! Don't get caught in the cheque book racing.

I was talking to your Dad at the Aust Supersprint Champs about this, it sounded good when he said rotisserie!

I have the following suspension on my R32 and it will run 47's at the Island no problem....

Front:

Nolec Adjustable upper control arms - unfortunately I don't think these are made any more, but worth a look

Cusco castor rods

Whiteline 24mm Front bar

Tien RE shocks that have been revalved

650 lb springs

Rear:

Tune Agent Upper control arms and traction rods - mostly for easy adjustment and to replace the old factory stuff that is about 15 years old

http://www.tuneagent.com.au/public/merchan...gory.aspx?id=84

Whiteline 22mm rear bar

Tien RE shocks that have been revalved

~450 lb springs I think

The HICAS is still in place

Nothing too over the top and have found all parts bullet proof after 5 years on the track and about 10,000 road k's.

Regards

Andrew

  • 2 weeks later...

i wish my old man liked my car just a little... its always jap crap get a real car like a commodore. then we pull up at a set of lights and i spank the bommodores ass harder than my house maid

  • 2 weeks later...

well time to update,

Christmas has passed and now time to get back on track!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

with dad clipping me tell me to get back in to it this is what we have done this weekend.

22678_264468237447_560567447_4348605_4720068_n.jpg

photo of stuff going to be blasted

22678_264468242447_560567447_4348606_8204648_n.jpg

the rear sub frame out and painted

22678_264468247447_560567447_4348607_4586584_n.jpg

gear box mount to be washed and cleaned before painting

22678_264468257447_560567447_4348609_4459731_n.jpg

stuff being painted

22678_264468297447_560567447_4348613_3260582_n.jpg

more of the stuff painted

22678_264468337447_560567447_4348617_4368699_n.jpg

and now that looks much better

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...