Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 181
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

ok guys if you are reading this please give your opinion im looking in to all the part for the gtr's suspension

im stuck in what to get.

i dont have the buget to run with the Ikeya Formula stuff so what should i do????

do i go with the JUST JAP stuff or with say CUSCO stuff like everything?????

please i need help

I'll pm you the good info and am with Bris! To much money gets wasted in wanky susp for club cars.

Just copy my car. Has nothing to fancy and does pretty well for what it is. Cusco fixed upper arms 3.5deg, adj Cusco rear uppers, tien castor rods and whiteline swaybars with bilstiens. Get the fronts for about $250 secondhand, rears prob $200. Swaybars $500 new. Castor rods $150ish. It has never put me in a bad situation. You having never driven a gtr hard it going to take at least prob 10 trackdays before you even begin to understand how to steer the car let alone touch the susp.

Better than putting $5000 susp in your car you can't understand. The extra trackdays you could do with the money you saved would be more benifitial. I don't get how so many guys do one track day with maybe 25 laps in groups of 3 laps where ther car only does 2 fast and then say they need to take the car to the workshop because it doesn't handle right. They prob haven't even learnt how to drive the new setup! Don't get caught in the cheque book racing.

I was talking to your Dad at the Aust Supersprint Champs about this, it sounded good when he said rotisserie!

I have the following suspension on my R32 and it will run 47's at the Island no problem....

Front:

Nolec Adjustable upper control arms - unfortunately I don't think these are made any more, but worth a look

Cusco castor rods

Whiteline 24mm Front bar

Tien RE shocks that have been revalved

650 lb springs

Rear:

Tune Agent Upper control arms and traction rods - mostly for easy adjustment and to replace the old factory stuff that is about 15 years old

http://www.tuneagent.com.au/public/merchan...gory.aspx?id=84

Whiteline 22mm rear bar

Tien RE shocks that have been revalved

~450 lb springs I think

The HICAS is still in place

Nothing too over the top and have found all parts bullet proof after 5 years on the track and about 10,000 road k's.

Regards

Andrew

  • 2 weeks later...

i wish my old man liked my car just a little... its always jap crap get a real car like a commodore. then we pull up at a set of lights and i spank the bommodores ass harder than my house maid

  • 2 weeks later...

well time to update,

Christmas has passed and now time to get back on track!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

with dad clipping me tell me to get back in to it this is what we have done this weekend.

22678_264468237447_560567447_4348605_4720068_n.jpg

photo of stuff going to be blasted

22678_264468242447_560567447_4348606_8204648_n.jpg

the rear sub frame out and painted

22678_264468247447_560567447_4348607_4586584_n.jpg

gear box mount to be washed and cleaned before painting

22678_264468257447_560567447_4348609_4459731_n.jpg

stuff being painted

22678_264468297447_560567447_4348613_3260582_n.jpg

more of the stuff painted

22678_264468337447_560567447_4348617_4368699_n.jpg

and now that looks much better

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...