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The more I think about it, the more I should probably go with a genuine Bride seat and rail set up. But damn the $$$ for a driver and passenger seat + rails! -
From what I understand, stock internals should hold out for a while even if you run 500 at the crank, no? Especially if you don't run a modern turbo setup that reaches power and torque much earlier than the original twins. My engine isn't unopened either, it has N1 Pumps, head oil restrictor, new crank and cams, new piston rings, ARP head studs and Cometic headgasket along with 2860-5s. Considering everything is healthy this should run fine for a while I assume. Once my engine stops leaking shit everywhere, it'll be tuned to 370 crank first anyway, because I need to legalize the turbo setup. If I end up needing a new engine because my block actually has an issue, even though GTSboy was adamant that the whole porous block story is nonsense, before putting an engine in I'm probably gonna take care of the weakspots. -
By soviet_merlin · Posted
Hah, I have no issues with what you are doing whatsoever! You clearly know what you are getting yourself into. It's just funny reading things like this. "What's that noise?" "Oh, that's normal. That's just the engine not getting any oil. Nothing to worry about. It'll go away in a moment" -
Yeah I'm keeping an eye on it and might take it out as a once off if this doesn't fully charge. I did some research that said it's normal in equalisation charging. Voltage I thought was 20+ (faulty battery in multimeter) but now its on 15.9v, the max it should go to is 16.2v as per the manual. I'll provide an update once hopefully it's actually fully charged and in float mode. Waiting for it to go to 16.2v and not higher and see what happens. What I suspect has happened is that even though it's not an old battery, I did leave the car turned off for almost 4 weeks at one point then left it off for another 2 weeks which might have erroded the battery and is taking a long time to do this equlisation charge.
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