Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 145
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Bakes, I have to agree that engine bay looks immaculate. It's sexy and looks damn menacing!

Do you have a build thread somewhere? Also, what power does that machine output?

By the way, here's mine (I didn't know whether I should post it as I already made a thread with some pics but I might as well post one here also)...

post-65182-1256127941_thumb.jpg

Edited by Shinrai

Car is making 404 Horsepower at 4 wheels on Insight Motorsports Dyno at ~1.4 Bar.

New valve springs and Cam Shafts will see it make 450 at same boost but Im not in any hurry to do that.

More pics of the car in the "Photography" section.

Cheers

Car is making 404 Horsepower at 4 wheels on Insight Motorsports Dyno at ~1.4 Bar.

New valve springs and Cam Shafts will see it make 450 at same boost but Im not in any hurry to do that.

little kids look forward to christmas, big kids look forward tax time :( hehehe

Two awsome engine bays from the guy's of Bakes, engine bay is crazzy man but really do love your work man, And pm-r33 awsome colour that blue is so sweet dude thqat is a sick colour two really nice engine bays if that didn't give any one ideas i don't know what will

WD40, a set of good pliers/shifter/something similar and then a hell of a lot of elbow grease. Twist them as much as you can to loosen them up and start pulling. It aint the easiest thing, but you'll get there. I just did my RB26 cover fittings.

Edited by PM-R33
WD40, a set of good pliers/shifter/something similar and then a hell of a lot of elbow grease. Twist them as much as you can to loosen them up and start pulling. It aint the easiest thing, but you'll get there. I just did my RB26 cover fittings.

Cheers! I'll give it a go.

While we are talking engine bay pics...does anyone know how to take the pressed fittings out from RB26 covers? I'm talking about the fittings that connect via hose to catch can.

if you are taking the covers off for something else, you can undo the baffles then tap the fittings out from the inside of the cover, less chance of damaging them incase you need them later.

use a socket that just fits into the fitting on an extension to tap them out.

  • 1 month later...

Hi All. Real nice engine bays there.

My Question is to Viet boi, R31 power, Nytsky, DuffR32....and others..

I noticed you are using silicon hoses (correct me if I'm wrong, just guessing as they are blue).....and I think you are using them for more than just air (oil? coolant?).

I bought a silicon hose kit kit recently (pretty much just for the colour, to dress up the engine bay), but after reading the fine print, it says "not suitable for fuel and other fluid applications".

And I was planning to replace pretty much all the hose that was around the same size in the engine bay. Although alot of these are for transporting air etc, alot of them would be for fluids of one type or another.

I mean I guess I won't use it for fuel hose (not that I could find my way around an engine even with a compass).

So....have you people noticed any problems with using replacement silicon hose? do any fluids eat through it and leak?

If anyone else can recommend with hoses I COULD safely replace without any safety issues. Please let me know. THANKS ALL

PS: I might create a new thread at a later stage with an engine pic, with groups of hoses numbered.

You'll find they are only running air, coolant and oil vapours. Thats is pretty much all you can use for them as like you said, fuel and power steering fluid will eat through it.

So coolant and Oil is OK??

Damn I really should start a new thread with pics, that way people can point of which ones are replaceable. Thanks PM-R33

Ok i think you are getting a bit confused as to what lines are what in the car.

Oil - There are no lines that you can replace. There are no lines that run a flow of oil other than solid ones from factory to the turbo and return lines to the sump. The only lines to replace are oil vapour from the cam covers that allow the engine to breath, since this is just vapour, it doesn't matter what you use. From factory they are just rubber. You can replace them with coloured silicone or braid if you wish.

Fuel - This can only be replaced by fuel approved lines. Therefore braided is really your only "upgrade" choice. You might be able to get coloured fuel approved rubber lines, but i wouldn't bother.

Air - Replace with anything you want.

Coolant - Anything that is made as a transmission fluid approved line will be fine. You can get silicone lines that will be fine for this.

So to sum it up. Braided lines can be pretty much used on anything and coloured silicone lines will be fine for anything other than the fuel lines, and check that they will be fine to run coolant through, most are.

Hope that helps you out a bit. Most of the lines you will be wanting to replace will be air/oil vapour lines so go nuts.

Edited by PM-R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rear doors central locking wiring removed and cleaned. See the first 8sec video of when it’s filled with river silt. its a snip of what I’m up against. front and rear doors complete now. Maybe another day removing carpet and bits and pieces. Then the re assembly begins. 🤙 att.DqweJqhY5MZiZYQDVMhn3LtvdD1RBZ7TBG4f2s7W1zM.mp4 att.lFuN22MZEowqCbFAXoDw009r2gHL76ChMVfxMfBX-uk.mp4
    • There aren't boost creep issues, it's not engineered around the restriction of the cats but if you haven't tuned the engine a full decat + exhaust can flow enough air to run off the end of the OEM load scales and you will get a pretty substantial reduction in ignition timing as a result. I recommend using DFCO, avoiding ignition cut limiters, and avoiding popcorn tunes along with running a cat unless you enjoy a perpetually soot-covered and potentially burnt bumper.
    • Small update, it's been slow moving over the Christmas period with money having to go everywhere thats not my car 😅. I got myself a little present to myself from "santa" in the form of some tidy radiator mounts from fitmint automotive to get rid of the stock ones that look like they have been in an accident before and then straightened by a caveman. I know I should've replaced the rubber bush at the same time but I had no idea how bad they were until I was replacing the mounts. Decided to order their dash mat while I was at it as I feel like I am lucky enough to have a pretty decent condition dash and I don't want to risk it being ruined while it's parked in the aussie sun while I'm at work. I have found another electrical fault to add to the evergrowing list to eventually chase down. Every time I replace my taillight globe it blows within a day of use, I'm starting to think my life would be easier if I took a few minutes to learn how to use  a multimeter 😂.   Had some luck with finding a series 2 drivers headlight on marketplace to replace my mismatched series 1 headlight, a subtle difference but it's nice to have a matching set of lights now.   I returned to the air con problem due to being sick of this summer heat, found a good condition condenser to replace my leaking one! I got it in the car and was happy when I got the thumbs up that the system was now holding gas. Sadly the compressor is not kicking in for some reason, we even tried branching the relay in the fuse box. I have tried to do some research on the issue with no clear understanding of what the fix is, so for now it will be placed on the backburner until I can be bothered to look into the wiring to the compressor. The last small mods I have done was cutting the horizontal vents out of the front bar, not really in a functional airflow sense but I just think it looks better as I am not a fan of the series 2 bar. I also switched the shift knob out for a hosoboyo aluminium grex style one, it has a really nice more direct driving feel than the outdated rubbery oem one. Thirdly, I chucked on one of the ebay bonnet strut kits. The fitment is decent and they seem to work fairly well. They have only given out once while the car was parked facing downhill, I think if I was working under the bonnet I would still put the oem hood stay up to be precautionary as to avoid getting a speedy concussion.
    • Got pneumonia, haven’t played with her in a while, but I’m back now. Previous owners cut bonnet pins into the bonnet. My choice try find a replacement or spend $15 get some pins myself to cover up. Now only one small hole to cover. looks shit now, but when the bonnet is red again. Be good 🤞
    • No R32 GTSt had 15" wheels. 205/55-16 was standard GTSt fare. 4.36:1 is standard R32 turbo auto diff. I think the manual was too, not 4.11. 4.11 and 4.08 were R33 namual and auto respectively.
×
×
  • Create New...