Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 145
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Bakes, I have to agree that engine bay looks immaculate. It's sexy and looks damn menacing!

Do you have a build thread somewhere? Also, what power does that machine output?

By the way, here's mine (I didn't know whether I should post it as I already made a thread with some pics but I might as well post one here also)...

post-65182-1256127941_thumb.jpg

Edited by Shinrai

Car is making 404 Horsepower at 4 wheels on Insight Motorsports Dyno at ~1.4 Bar.

New valve springs and Cam Shafts will see it make 450 at same boost but Im not in any hurry to do that.

More pics of the car in the "Photography" section.

Cheers

Car is making 404 Horsepower at 4 wheels on Insight Motorsports Dyno at ~1.4 Bar.

New valve springs and Cam Shafts will see it make 450 at same boost but Im not in any hurry to do that.

little kids look forward to christmas, big kids look forward tax time :( hehehe

Two awsome engine bays from the guy's of Bakes, engine bay is crazzy man but really do love your work man, And pm-r33 awsome colour that blue is so sweet dude thqat is a sick colour two really nice engine bays if that didn't give any one ideas i don't know what will

WD40, a set of good pliers/shifter/something similar and then a hell of a lot of elbow grease. Twist them as much as you can to loosen them up and start pulling. It aint the easiest thing, but you'll get there. I just did my RB26 cover fittings.

Edited by PM-R33
WD40, a set of good pliers/shifter/something similar and then a hell of a lot of elbow grease. Twist them as much as you can to loosen them up and start pulling. It aint the easiest thing, but you'll get there. I just did my RB26 cover fittings.

Cheers! I'll give it a go.

While we are talking engine bay pics...does anyone know how to take the pressed fittings out from RB26 covers? I'm talking about the fittings that connect via hose to catch can.

if you are taking the covers off for something else, you can undo the baffles then tap the fittings out from the inside of the cover, less chance of damaging them incase you need them later.

use a socket that just fits into the fitting on an extension to tap them out.

  • 1 month later...

Hi All. Real nice engine bays there.

My Question is to Viet boi, R31 power, Nytsky, DuffR32....and others..

I noticed you are using silicon hoses (correct me if I'm wrong, just guessing as they are blue).....and I think you are using them for more than just air (oil? coolant?).

I bought a silicon hose kit kit recently (pretty much just for the colour, to dress up the engine bay), but after reading the fine print, it says "not suitable for fuel and other fluid applications".

And I was planning to replace pretty much all the hose that was around the same size in the engine bay. Although alot of these are for transporting air etc, alot of them would be for fluids of one type or another.

I mean I guess I won't use it for fuel hose (not that I could find my way around an engine even with a compass).

So....have you people noticed any problems with using replacement silicon hose? do any fluids eat through it and leak?

If anyone else can recommend with hoses I COULD safely replace without any safety issues. Please let me know. THANKS ALL

PS: I might create a new thread at a later stage with an engine pic, with groups of hoses numbered.

You'll find they are only running air, coolant and oil vapours. Thats is pretty much all you can use for them as like you said, fuel and power steering fluid will eat through it.

So coolant and Oil is OK??

Damn I really should start a new thread with pics, that way people can point of which ones are replaceable. Thanks PM-R33

Ok i think you are getting a bit confused as to what lines are what in the car.

Oil - There are no lines that you can replace. There are no lines that run a flow of oil other than solid ones from factory to the turbo and return lines to the sump. The only lines to replace are oil vapour from the cam covers that allow the engine to breath, since this is just vapour, it doesn't matter what you use. From factory they are just rubber. You can replace them with coloured silicone or braid if you wish.

Fuel - This can only be replaced by fuel approved lines. Therefore braided is really your only "upgrade" choice. You might be able to get coloured fuel approved rubber lines, but i wouldn't bother.

Air - Replace with anything you want.

Coolant - Anything that is made as a transmission fluid approved line will be fine. You can get silicone lines that will be fine for this.

So to sum it up. Braided lines can be pretty much used on anything and coloured silicone lines will be fine for anything other than the fuel lines, and check that they will be fine to run coolant through, most are.

Hope that helps you out a bit. Most of the lines you will be wanting to replace will be air/oil vapour lines so go nuts.

Edited by PM-R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...