Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

O.k in a year or so i will be wanting to do one of a few things car wise before i save for my house

Options i am considering

1.Sell current gtst and but and slightly modify a R34

2.Sell current gtst and buy a stock 33gtr/lightly modded 32 gtr

3.work on my current gtst upgrade turbo ect

just wanting your guys opinion on what i should do as i havn't made up my own mind yet and its still far off

should have just above 20g's to spend (with car sold)

asking your opinions

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289773-decisions-decisions/
Share on other sites

Think carefully. Once you get that mortgage you have in effect shackled yourself in a huge chain never to have ready cash to spend on toys again. lol

If your 33 is good and you are happy, I'd keep it an mod it. 20k would have it singing. 'Better the devil you know' in some ways? Buy a new car and it could be a lemon.

Edited by Tony de Wonderful

I like the look of the 32 gtr's better than the 33's, just has a tougher stance when its dumped on 18's. however it is almost becoming a classic. I wouldnt want to have to fret about it (if things go wrong), with a house waiting to be paid off..

IMO dump the house and live in your car then you can make a 7 sec godzilla streeter.. whilst having insane banana dance raves.. :P;):banana:

tough decision man.

yeah im tossing up between a stock 33 gtr or a nice 32, how common are the 33's compared to the 32's (GTR's)

lots less 33 gtr produced than 32's

but the 33's are a hell of a lot fuglier imo

<3 my 32R. I was eyeying off a 33GTR for a while aswel. Thing that made me change my mind was the 33's are heavier (not by much, bout 50-100kg more, very negligible) was that you can't disable the AWD systems on em, same as the 34's. 32GTR's have for me always looked a lot better and have the true "cult" recognition aswel, coupled with the fact that they were the reason australian touring cars went to V8's and RWD only :(

My opinion would be, keep the R33 and drop money into it and get out of it what you want performance wise. Reason being, it's better to modify a car you already have and know where to put the $$ than to i nherit someone elses potential problem and then have to spend more money on it than you originally intended.

Think carefully. Once you get that mortgage you have in effect shackled yourself in a huge chain never to have ready cash to spend on toys again. lol

If your 33 is good and you are happy, I'd keep it an mod it. 20k would have it singing. 'Better the devil you know' in some ways? Buy a new car and it could be a lemon.

I agree with Joe.

With 20g, you will not find a 33gtr and not much change on a modded 32gtr + stamp duty. So if you need to do any maintenance....its extra $$ needed and you'll be digging into the house fund.

Having said that....i've never walked my talk and bought cars on impulse.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...