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skyline1999

If there was no play in the bearings and they spun ok with no real noise or notchiness then they should be fine.

A lot of mechanics and other cars recommend those bearings be replaced at 200k kms interval.

At 100k I did the tensioner and idler since I got them at a good price. The water pump seemed fine, no play, no weeps from the weep hole so I took the risk. 170k km no issue but it isn't a bad idea to do it all at the same time.

I thought the RB25 was a non interference motor, ie, snap a belt, no issues except for motor stoppping...

I've had my pistons at TDC before whilst changing heads etc, and spun the cams a full 180degrees each, and they don't hit...

Explain how you guys smash valves? Or is teh RB20 an interference motor?

I've been told that Nissan engines that have automatic gearboxes mated to them, don't suffer from the valves smashing into the piston when the belt snaps or jumps some teeth, can't remember the explanation though.

I replaced my belt the other day, along with the idler and tensioner. Car had done 100,200km's. I got a Dayco timing belt kit which included everything just mentioned, plus cam and crank seals, however i didnt fit these.

I didnt replace my water pump at the same time, i hope that holds up!

I've been told that Nissan engines that have automatic gearboxes mated to them, don't suffer from the valves smashing into the piston when the belt snaps or jumps some teeth, can't remember the explanation though.

Well i can tell you that is a load of shit :D

The RB20 i had was behind an auto

I can't see what transmission has to do with it anyway.

Either way, tensioner snapped - minced the valves, its common knowledge that's what happens.

So NO - you should change them @ 100k, im pretty certain Nissan advise this as well

I thought the RB25 was a non interference motor.

I've had my pistons at TDC before whilst changing heads etc, and spun the cams a full 180degrees each, and they don't hit...

Mate, have no idea what you did but at TDC if you rotate you cams 360degrees, valves will hit.

NEVER do cam work with the crank at TDC.

How could you possibly know without taking them apart?

as the guy said above they seemed to have no play in the bearings and span with not much noise , and I did take them off just didnt replace them

as the guy said above they seemed to have no play in the bearings and span with not much noise , and I did take them off just didnt replace them

Doesn't mean a thing I'm afraid :)

Just because they don't make noise and/or have play does not mean it wont develop well before 200,000.

And if it suddenly just lets go (as they do), you'll find out just how wrong such an assumption would be :)

I have been lucky twice now! I'm about to do my 2nd timing belt in 20 000k. Did the first one a few years ago at 130k because the idler siezed. I didn't know what the previous owner had done so i replaced belt, idler and tensioner. Now the tensioner has gone again so it's all being replaced again. No damage either time!

My standard belt is coming up to or has passed 130 000kms. Pretty sure it's around that.

Next time it's started for more then 30 seconds it will be driving to the mechs and will have the timeing belt replaced, among other things.

To be honest, I remember looking at the timing belt ages ago and it looked like shit... although, that could have been the ac belt, as the bearing in the tensioner for that seized, twice, and minced the belt...

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