Jump to content
SAU Community

How Long Has Your Stock Timing Belt Lasted

boostn0199

By boostn0199,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

skyline1999

If there was no play in the bearings and they spun ok with no real noise or notchiness then they should be fine.

A lot of mechanics and other cars recommend those bearings be replaced at 200k kms interval.

At 100k I did the tensioner and idler since I got them at a good price. The water pump seemed fine, no play, no weeps from the weep hole so I took the risk. 170k km no issue but it isn't a bad idea to do it all at the same time.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

I thought the RB25 was a non interference motor, ie, snap a belt, no issues except for motor stoppping...

I've had my pistons at TDC before whilst changing heads etc, and spun the cams a full 180degrees each, and they don't hit...

Explain how you guys smash valves? Or is teh RB20 an interference motor?

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

I've been told that Nissan engines that have automatic gearboxes mated to them, don't suffer from the valves smashing into the piston when the belt snaps or jumps some teeth, can't remember the explanation though.

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted

I replaced my belt the other day, along with the idler and tensioner. Car had done 100,200km's. I got a Dayco timing belt kit which included everything just mentioned, plus cam and crank seals, however i didnt fit these.

I didnt replace my water pump at the same time, i hope that holds up!

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
I've been told that Nissan engines that have automatic gearboxes mated to them, don't suffer from the valves smashing into the piston when the belt snaps or jumps some teeth, can't remember the explanation though.

Well i can tell you that is a load of shit :D

The RB20 i had was behind an auto

I can't see what transmission has to do with it anyway.

Either way, tensioner snapped - minced the valves, its common knowledge that's what happens.

So NO - you should change them @ 100k, im pretty certain Nissan advise this as well

grigor Rising Star

grigor

Posted
Posted
I thought the RB25 was a non interference motor.

I've had my pistons at TDC before whilst changing heads etc, and spun the cams a full 180degrees each, and they don't hit...

Mate, have no idea what you did but at TDC if you rotate you cams 360degrees, valves will hit.

NEVER do cam work with the crank at TDC.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How could you possibly know without taking them apart?

as the guy said above they seemed to have no play in the bearings and span with not much noise , and I did take them off just didnt replace them

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
as the guy said above they seemed to have no play in the bearings and span with not much noise , and I did take them off just didnt replace them

Doesn't mean a thing I'm afraid :)

Just because they don't make noise and/or have play does not mean it wont develop well before 200,000.

And if it suddenly just lets go (as they do), you'll find out just how wrong such an assumption would be :)

Psymon Mentor

Psymon

Posted
Posted

I have been lucky twice now! I'm about to do my 2nd timing belt in 20 000k. Did the first one a few years ago at 130k because the idler siezed. I didn't know what the previous owner had done so i replaced belt, idler and tensioner. Now the tensioner has gone again so it's all being replaced again. No damage either time!

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

My standard belt is coming up to or has passed 130 000kms. Pretty sure it's around that.

Next time it's started for more then 30 seconds it will be driving to the mechs and will have the timeing belt replaced, among other things.

To be honest, I remember looking at the timing belt ages ago and it looked like shit... although, that could have been the ac belt, as the bearing in the tensioner for that seized, twice, and minced the belt...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Tomei gasket

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And since the flush you have a blown head gasket? Have you lifted the head off yet?
    • GTSBoy
      Hr34 fuel pump not turning on

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The answer is to get a hold of the wiring diagram, work out what voltage is supposed to be where, when, and then work out why it is not there, then. I can't speak to the HR34 stuff, because I have never paid any attention to the NAs. There is a possibility that the turbo diagram will help, but it could also be different - depending on whether there is an FPCM on the NAs.
    • Trinicandian
      Hr34 fuel pump not turning on

      By Trinicandian · Posted

      Hey guys. New here. I am having an issue with my hr34. The fuel pump isn't turning on. I removed it from the tank. Bench test it. Wasn't working. Order new one and installed it today. Still not turning on. Checked the relay. Relay has voltage on the contact side. I jumped it and it tuned the pump on. Which lead me to checked the coil voltage.  Turned on the ignition and had my meter across the coil and there wasn't any dc voltage. Had my meter lead on the positive and I used the frame ground and noticed there was 12 volts. Which lead me to believe the relay isn't getting a negative signal. I traced the wire ( black with pink strip).it goes back to the bottom on the steering and it gets lost into the harness.   I checked at the ecm and I can't seem to find that wire color.   My question if any one knows is. Can I not just run the negative through a ignition relay to turn on the fuel pump relay?. Or anyone ever had this issue and if so how did u go about fixing it.    
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      So many people don't notice it, as batteries decay slowly over time. Two big reasons people end up noticing and needing to replace batteries: 1) The cold weather. The cold not only makes it harder to turn the engine for a few reasons, but it also increases the batteries internal resistance. So this means you need MORE power to turn a colder engine, AND the battery has a lower limit on how much current it can provide. 2) Something gets modified/altered/added in the wiring, typically an aftermarket accessory, like a dash camera, or an alarm etc, and this adds a small amount extra onto the battery, and pushes it over the edge in its failing days. But if you hadn't have read this thread, and just pushed through, chances are you might have made it through this winter, just. But come next winter, it would have been kapoot. But the fact you changed it out now, means you've instantly noticed how much nicer it is for starting, and will be less worry for you that the engine won't start now.
    • soviet_merlin
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Holy shit, I'm glad you brought up the battery issue and I'm glad I asked about measuring it. Old battery was at a healthy 12.82V in the morning with the car turned off. Removed the fuel pump fuse, clamped the multimeter on at min/max/average and cranked for ~3 seconds. It dropped down to 8.30V. So yeah, not surprising it struggled that much. Picked up a fresh battery from supercheap and it's ridiculous. Haven't done a cold start yet, but man, even with a warm start the difference is night and day. I can't believe I lived with this for so long. Just blamed it on it being an old modified car. Went with Century because convenient. If they are shit it'll be a future me problem. But just in case I set up a reminder for 30 months - 8 weeks to check on the battery state and get a warranty replacement if necessary. 
×
×
  • Create New...