Jump to content
SAU Community

My R31 Series 2 Randomly Misses / Stalls

gregmc

By gregmc,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

gregmc Newbie

gregmc

Posted
Posted

my car will from time to time will miss will driving and sometimes completely stop. The taco stops but the rest of the dash lights are normal. I will sometimes go days with out a problem then all of a sudden I will have constant misses and stalls. It sometimes takes 2-3 minutes of cranking to start again. I have tried to find a faulty wire or connection but to no avail. I have replaced the dist cap. full set of leads, spark plugs, fuel & air filters. Fuel pump is delivering correct preasure. No amount of moving of any wires in the engine bay while stationary doesn't cause it to miss or stall.

Has anyone had this problem?

BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
Posted
my car will from time to time will miss will driving and sometimes completely stop. The taco stops but the rest of the dash lights are normal. I will sometimes go days with out a problem then all of a sudden I will have constant misses and stalls. It sometimes takes 2-3 minutes of cranking to start again. I have tried to find a faulty wire or connection but to no avail. I have replaced the dist cap. full set of leads, spark plugs, fuel & air filters. Fuel pump is delivering correct preasure. No amount of moving of any wires in the engine bay while stationary doesn't cause it to miss or stall.

Has anyone had this problem?

My R31 did something similar it would completely die but it would start again almost straight away. With time it got worse and eventually refused to start. I found the terminals on the distributor plug needed a clean as I could move the wires and get it to stall. Had some corrosion buildup which I cleaned and the car never faulted again.

Dorifta Collaborator

Dorifta

Posted
Posted

try wiggling the dizzy harness, its a common problem on many cars, if not, there are procedures to get the fault codes of the ecu which would have logged a code if a problem occurs. dont think u have obd, older cars usually require a pin to placed into a harness and the the flashing code will display on the dash, go for the workshop manual on importworkshop.com or allcarmanuals.com

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ozdavroz
      Best Skyline ever

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Skidmore
      Leather Gucci Bag With Receipt

      By Skidmore · Posted

      Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • Skip33
      Best Skyline ever

      By Skip33 · Posted

      @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • Erelyes
      Jeff R32 Build

      By Erelyes · Posted

      All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...